You know a Mumbai Winter
Way back in the early 90’s when the Iron Curtain had just lifted, on a warm summer’s day in Warsaw, the chambermaid of the Victoria hotel where we were staying was horrified when she saw me zipping up my baby pink windcheater before stepping out for the day.
Not only were my clothes terribly un-chic, but also terribly inappropriate. All those around me, including the chambermaid, were stripped down to their tank tops and shorts! Except of course the poor soldier on the Square keeping company to the unknown soldier lying in the tomb across .
The chambermaid couldn’t contain herself and asked me where I came from because I seemed so cold and uncomfortable on such a lovely hot day like this .
When I told her that her hot summer day ( 25 ° C that day) in Warsaw was probably the coldest day in Mumbai, from where I came, she rolled her eyes in disbelief.
I realised then, that we in Mumbai are truly blessed when it comes to winter and the cold weather. It’s not really cold to those who’ve experienced cold, but it’s cold enough for us to want to stand in the sun yet we can get by with just a shawl or light denim jacket or a fleece T.
You know it’s winter in Mumbai when
- It’s pitch dark outside when you get up at 6.00 a.m.
- You start an evening walk at 4 pm because it gets dark by 6.
- The smog outside dims the lights of the Queen’s Necklace.
- Hordes of Tibetan sweater sellers take up half the pavement in Nana’s Chowk and other pavements near local stations.
- The grannies in the building sit around together bundled up in assorted shawls.
- When you come home late at night and find the watchman in his trench coat and balaclava rubbing his hands to keep warm.
- Traffic light vendors shove boxes of strawberries under your nose by while you wait for the light to turn green.
- The carrots get redder and peas soft and sweet.
- You put away the remote for the AC and pull out those blankets kept mothballed away
- You prefer wearing silks and long sleeved T’s.
- When friends and family are busy with their friends and family who’ve descended on them from colder climes
- When songs by Jim Reeves play on radio waves
- When cotton wool snow and tinsel and red feature in decorations in shops and hotels
And it’s here !
I saw a young mother taking her children home.
While she like me, was dressed in regular clothes, but her toddler togged out in warm winter woollies–
warm woollens to keep out the cold,
like an Eskimo wrapped in a “furry” hoody.
Yes! Our Mumbai Winter is finally here.
Early and actually cold.
For those living in colder climes it would seem strange to see a populace shiver so because in another part of the world it would be warmer than a warm Spring day.
The air is distinctly chilly
And late at night and early morning
a smoggy fog descends,
enshrouding the city in a mist of sorts
while we cuddle under blankets brought out from lofts.
It is the perfect weather for morning walks Or strolling in the afternoon Drinking cups of tea all day long, Or munching biscuits dipped In hot chocolate.
And the Tibetan sweater sellers are back once again.
On street corners by the station.
They do brisk business as they sit in packs
Unwrapping bundles of coloured sweaters.
Their bronze cheeked faces crinkling
Up in Mumbai’s unfamiliar blazing sun.
They stay here a few days more
Visitors like our capricious Winter season.
And when the kites fill up our sky
The Tibetan sweater sellers bid us good bye
To come again another year
Another Winter season.

Ciao,



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