After the visit to the Gol Gumbaz we returned to the hotel for a well-deserved breakfast before setting off southwards towards Badami or Vatapi as it was called when it was the Chalukya capital. We didn’t get to see the town but the caves on the outskirts definitely showcased the glory and power of the Chalukyas.

The weather was good, slightly overcast and the 2 1/2 hours passed by quickly.

On the way we saw some gaily decorated tractors festooned with feathers, ribbons, streamers and cheerleader pompoms.

As we approached Badami, we began to see the rock formations of sandstone from which the caves are carved.

The four caves that we had come to see are part of the UNESCO designated area and are often on the tourist trail of visitors to Hampi. These 6th-century CE cave temples were built during the Chalukya reign and are more than just architectural masterpieces. They also retell some of the most fascinating stories of our Gods and Goddesses.

On top of the caves are inscribed the names of the sculptors while on the side is an attendance register of the workers who reported to work.

Cave 1 : The Cave Of Shiva

The different caves are dedicated to different gods. The first is dedicated to Shiva, and shows him in his various forms.

The Dancing Shiva

At the entrance itself, is the magnificent sculpture ofthe Dancing Shiva in his avatar as Nataraja. With his 18 arms, this sculpture is a compendium of Bharat Natyam poses as our guide Raju very gamely showed us.

Gender Fquality and the story of Bringu

Sage Bhringi was an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva and refused to bow to his wife Parvati. But Shiva didn’t like this so he put Parvati on his lap making it impossible for Brhingi to go round with going round Parvati too! But Bhringi transformed changed himself into a bee so that he could circumambulate only Shiva. This made Parvati really angry, so she took away his flesh and left him a weak, helpless skeleton. Seeing his plight, Shiva gave him an extra leg to stand on. This is how Bhringi got his third leg.

But Shiva wanted Bhringi to realise that the Universe consists of both male and female energy and he hadt o circumambulate Parvati, so he appeared as Ardha Nari nareshwar, a form that unifies the male and female energy of the universe.

harihareshwar : when Shiva and Vishnu come together

This statue shows both Shiva and Vishnu as one signifying that both Shiva and Vishnu are one and the same.

The doorkeeper on the left of the cave is standing on Vrishaba -Kunjara a motif where both the elephant and the bull share one head.

On the ceiling

In the sanctum sanctorum or garbhagriha one can see the shivling.

The Shivling

After the mukhamantapa or the verandah with columns is the main sanctum sanctorum of the temple carved out of the hill.

Cave II

Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the cave has amazing carvings of different avatars of Vishnu,

Some beautiful sculptures on the ceiling.

The Avatars of Vishnu

Cave 3 :Vestiges of vegetable dye painting

While the caves are spectacular, it is quite a climb and not meant for those who are faint of heart or weak-kneed.

Around the caves

Similarly, there is a strong overpowering smell of bat droppings.

One should also take care not to open water bottles while on the climb or near the caves, as the monkeys that are around come swooping down to grab the bottle, have a sip, and then perversely pour it out empty before running off.

I personally was exhausted by the time we finished Cave 3 and gave Cave 4 a miss.

We still had to visit the Bhootnath Temple at Agastya Lake and the Banashankari Temple so we went down to catch a rickshaw.

We passed through narrow gulleys of the town, relatively clean save for the open drainage and several pigs we found running around and scavenging in garbage heaps.

The light was fading and we were quite exhausted.

So we made a cursory trip to the temple, saw a laboratory of sorts a little away on a hillside where the apprentice sculptures practiced their skills in carving and sculpting.

Our last stop was the Banashankari temple which most of us gave the skip, preferring instead to indulge in a cup of sweet masala chai.

Briefly put, Parvati’s father was performing a yagna to which she showed up uninvited. Her father rudely asked her why she had come. This so enraged Parvati, that she jumped into the yagna and blew up into 52 pieces one of which landed at the spot where the temple now stands.

Even though this temple is of historic and religious significance, we just about made a brief visit. The temple has a special festival in January-February, where 5-mile-long queues made our 30-minute wait seem like a dream. Unfortunately, our arrival coincided with the bath time for the goddess and we had to wait till she was ready to receive her devotees. Once inside, we got a quick glimpse of her but left satisfied that we could actually see her.

Tip : If one wants to explore the Bhoothnath temple, the archeological museum, Badami Fort and the Banashankari Temple, two days are required in Badami.

Ciao,