While the rest of the city was sleeping, this bright blue bakery with white- turned- cream trimmings, had its wood fired ovens burning and was ready for business. With posters from the 50’s adorning the walls, the high ceilings with slow moving fans, glass cases with breads, puffs, biscuits and cakes Yazdani smelt of warm yeast rising. We sat at one of the Formica topped tables lined up like railway wagons and the crusty owner who manned cash counter shouted out ” Bai ke liye ek bun maska!” to the insides of the establishment and we made ourselves comfortable on the cheap Formica topped table and bench.
Then while we waited for a hot Brun pao (a hard crusty bun with soft insides) dripping with butter to dip and dunk into a steaming hot cup of tea, we surrendered to the warm embracing of aroma of hot bread and watched the slicing machine clattering away, loaf after loaf of freshly baked bread.Yazdani is always a popular place despite the crotchety manager cum owner who welcomes everyone with a grimace and its bite sized hot mawa cakes vanish almost as fast as they come and on Sundays you can’t even find a crumb! Apparently the breads are great too, especially their foccacia but I always land up too late in the day to pick up any.
The walls are lined with old posters from the 50’s and strange signs along with the photographs of Mr. Universe ’51, ’52 and ’53 along with photographs of the owners’ grand aunt who was the first Indian woman hockey player and the photo of his nephew who recently won a body building competetion adds to the quaint eccentricity of Yazdani.
Irani Bakeries are part of the Mumbai scene and each one has a unique charm. While most have now spiffed up, there are still a few remaining with the original bent wood chairs, chequered table cloths, and strange injunctions ( do not ask foolish questions, do not ask for directions, do not sit for long) and the cussed cashier/owner at the counter. They provide a haven for tired soles ( and souls) which comprises an assorted clientele of office goers, college students, cart pullers , lawyers , the hippie tourist and even the thirsty shopper, who all mix comfortably in their dusty surroundings. Most serve the standard fare of “bun maska” and chai or khari and chai, omlettes, guady coloured cakes and pastries, sandwiches or rolls with lurid yellow mayo squishing out.
While I would recommend Yazdani early in the morning, anytime is brun pao maska time especially at Yazdani. So the next time you are in Fort and looking for a hot cuppa to cheer you up, you know where to go.
