Twenty- five Seven – Page 537 – Personally speaking

Florence – a delightful surprise at every turn

October 22, 2013
Ciao Firenze

Ever since I’d read EM Foster’s ” A Room with a View” as a 16 year old, I’ve been dying to see Florence so when I got a chance to visit Italy this year, I just had to include Florence in my itinerary even if it was a short trip.

I love train travel so I decided to take Trenitalia’s high speed train the Frecciarossa from Roma Termini to Florence’s Santa Maria Novella or SMN as it is commonly known. I booked my ticket online before leaving Mumbai so all I had to do was go to the main station around ten minutes before departure and board the train. Like all stations the world over, Roma Termini has a busy air with hundreds of people walking around – travellers as well as shoppers because the Station truly has some amazing shops. But unlike several busy stations, Roma Termini was clean and efficient with platforms are well marked and train movements well indicated on signboards that worked and were updated every minute. An hour and a half of Tuscan countryside and I found myself at SMN bang on time.

Staying at Florence

Since I am a budget traveller, my main requirement of a hotel is location and cleanliness. I booked a room at The Hotel Axial because it fulfilled both criteria. The hotel had given precise directions how to get there, yet the minute I emerged from the subway I just forgot the name of the Hotel. I couldn’t even remember the directions ! Suddenly, I remembered that the hotel was near the Duomo. I also remembered Anna Shetty telling me that the Duomo was visible from almost every street in Florence so I decided to follow the first set of tourists trotting behind a flag toting guide. Luckily they were headed towards the Duomo.

The Hotel Axial was extremely well located in via dei Calzaiuoli, just off the Duomo. Even though it was on the first floor of an old medieval building, it was quite unlike my hotel in Rome. For starters, the passage was spotlessly clean, the lift new, and the hotel refurbished with fittings that worked. And a bed that was by far the most comfortable hotel bed I’ve slept in for a long time. The front desk was managed by Kiara the owner of the hotel who actually welcomed me without me having to tell her my name! I knew I’d come to the right place. Kiara showed me to my room and told me how to get around the city.

Booking tickets

The Duomo from the Uffizi

Since I had very little time and lots to see so much, I got down to seeing the sights as soon as I’d checked in. Luckily for me, there was a small booking window right next to the hotel which sells tickets to all the Museums and Galleries so I quickly made a dash to that window. I couldn’t believe that a 12 o’clock slot was available and quickly booked my ticket to visit the Uffizi. With around half an hour to spare, I wandered around the Piazza della Signora and had a quick lunch of panini with cheese and ham.

Forearmed with Rick Steves, I went into the Galleria Uffizi confident that this time I would know the details of every picture I stood before. Alas! It came as a shock to me to find that several of the paintings mentioned by Rick Steves were moved around as the Gallery was under renovation. His commentary did not follow the museum tour at all! However, that did not detract from the beauty of the paintings and I spent a wonderful two hours walking about the place absorbing all the glories of Renaissance art.

Ponte Vecchio

Jewellry on the bridge

Getting out of the Uffizi I was surprised to find myself beside a murky looking river . This was none other than the Arno and lo and behold ahead of me was the famous Ponte Vecchio. This was the only bridge to have survived the bombing of WW 2. Since the bridge was there ahead of me, I decided to walk down to the other side of the river and was amazed to see how crowded it was with tourists of every colour and hue looking into hundreds of jewellry shops selling ornaments made of gold and coral and lapis lazuli .

Turning back

The Duomo

The Last Judgement

The narrow cobbled streets were truly maze like but I made the trip back to the hotel with the ease of a practiced Florentian! Following the recommendation of my hotel manager I rested my weary feet while munching on the most fabulous gelato at Perche No! – which consisted of a scoop of a semi freddo or whipped cream souffle of chestnut, the flavour of the season. With so many calories replenished, I continued my tour of the city and walked back to the Duomo . This square which was swarming with people despite the grey and gloomy sky strangely reminded me of Islamic architecture with its inlaid coloured marble. Since the girl at the hotel recommended a closer look at the gorgeous Last Judgement on the cupola, I foolishly bought a ticket to what was supposed to be the stairway to heaven. It turned out to be a hellish ascent up a corkscrew and I actually had to stop several times to get my breath back up this narrow steep and tall climb. While the ceiling was worth it, I would definitely not recommend it to any elderly tourist.

Inside the Batistero

But not being faint of heart, I continued with the sight seeing.. This time I went inside the Battistero or squat octagonal building across the Duomo . It had the most gorgeous bronze doors and intricately decorated mosaic ceilings.

A quick look at the Battistero across the Duomo was well worth it and once I’d got my breath back my spirits were much lifted and I resumed my trek of the ancient city.
Walking down the narrow streets filled with shops selling Italian leather wares, high fashion and gelatarias, I was fascinated by the sweets in a shop window. On closer inspection I found it to be Gilli, an iconic Florentine Cafe and I decided to go inside to have a cup of coffee. To my surprise, the shop opened into the Piazza Repubblica where several people were just hanging around shooting the breeze, having turns on the carousel or meeting up with friends.

And this square turned out to be just behind the hotel so I decided to have an early dinner at the much recommended ( by the hotel owner) Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, a family owned eatery in via dei Tavolini that serves authentic Tuscan fare from its own home grown produce. I sipped a glass of light and fruity Rosso Verrazzano( the house wine) which perfectly complimented the Cecina con proscuitto al profumo di tartufo, a delightfully flavoured and tastefully served dish of stuffed pancake of chickpea flour, drizzled with olive oil and finely shredded aragula. It was a welcome change from the tried and tested pasta and pizza. It had a wonderful smoky taste and I slept peacefully that night with visions of the Renaissance masterpieces dancing in my head.

Tips :
The train is by far the most convenient way to get top Florence from either Milan or Rome

Book a hotel that is close to the sights because all of historic Florence is truly walkable

Mind your purse as you walk around because there are several shady characters on the street
More tips on how to make your trip to Rome more wonderful.

October 22, 2013
Carpe Diem

I woke up the next morning refreshed and ready to seize the day. Hotel Giuliana I found was staffed by young people of different nationalities who manned the front desk in shifts. Unlike the earlier front deskers, this person was Indian but like all Indians abroad, flatly refused to acknowledge a fellow compatriot. However, he did oblige me with a cup of coffee that was part of his duty. The Breakfast part of the hotel was really like what I have at home – a buttered toast – but for those who look forward to a hearty morning meal – go back to bed and dream on…….

Anyway, since I wanted to seize the day, I made my way to Roma Termini to get onto the Hop On Hop Off Bus which is my preferred way to see a city. Moreso if I’m doing it alone and have absolutely no idea of where things are and what I’d like to see. I reached the Bus stand too early it seems to seize the day as the tours begin operating from 9 am. But that gave me enough time to figure out which bus I wanted to catch and what sights I’d like to see.

Hopping on and hopping off – Red or Green or may be Blue?

With the early morning sun peeping from behind an overcast sky, the HoHo bus seemed the best choice. There are several HoHo bus companies and as the ticket seller explained to me, the only difference between the green bus which was the cheapest and the red bus (which at 20 Euros for the day was 2 Euros more expensive) was that I could use the Red Roma Sightseeing Bus pass for all of 24 hours. The other bus, Roma Christina offered two more stops but its slant was more on the sights of religious significance. There were several other buses too, some with open to sky seating on the top, others with a sun roof. I got onto the red Roma sightseeing bus simply because I’ve used that service in other cities before. Well equipped with my head phones, I clambered up to the top of the bus from its starting point on the other side of the Termini at via Marsala and sat through the entire 90 minute journey savouring the sights of ancient Rome.

Ancient Rome in Modern Times

The good thing about an early start was that the streets were relatively clear of traffic. I could thus see the whole city from my vantage point. As we sped past the Colosseum, the Piazza Venezia and the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica, I couldn’t help but marvel at all the ancient glories that I’d just heard of and was actually seeing. I got off at the Colosseum only to find that there was an hour long queue which I could have avoided had I bought the Roma Pass but which I didn’t since I was not intending using public transport and was in the city for just about two nights. So unwilling to wait and do the trudge, fearful of missing my step since it was really very wet, I went back to the stop to wait for the very next bus.

I got off at the Piazza Venezia with the intention of crossing the bridge to Trastevere a once seedy district now revived and boasting of several good eateries. However, I got lost along the way and didn’t find the bridge so I plodded on to the Pantheon and followed the trail to the Fountain of Trevi, tossed a coin and moved ahead to the Spanish Steps. While walking along a trail which had signs in Braille at either end of the street, I picked up a panini and an overpriced gelato to slake my thirst which the salesman assured me was decidedly overpriced simply because it was sold in a place which was strategically located……..

While I was awestruck by the Pantheon and the Piazza Venezia, pleasantly amused by the joyous crowds at the Fountain of Trevi, I was terribly disappointed to see fake flowers flank the Spanish Steps. So put off was I by this discovery that I didn’t step inside the Museum dedicated to Keats & Shelley just beside the steps though I had oft dreamt of going there.

So I returned back to the hotel happy . A bit disappointed, though, that all the sights were not quite what I’d imagined them to be and decided to pick up my sagging spirits with a bit of retail therapy.

Retail Therapy

Because Italy is known for its fashion I decided to actually try out some stuff. I chose a small shop right near the hotel simply because I knew that the big ones were totally beyond my wallet. And what an experience it was! There were three people dancing attendance on me ! One gave me piles of clothes to try on. Another explained the pros and cons of each style . And a third actually critically analysed each garment and me me feel like a million bucks. But a fool and his money are soon parted and I was not willing to play the fool . I steeled my heart and walked away from those absolutely hard to resist lines like ” Madam this is just you!” Or, “This fashion is meant for real women like you” which made me feel good about my burgeoning midriff and flappy upper arms.

I had a quiet meal in another restaurant decidedly touristy, this time, in the street across the hotel. I paid off my bill and hunkered down for the night before my early morning train ride to Florence.

TIPS

So now here’s the run down
Rome is entirely doable in two days for a quick whistle stop tour

Half a day for the Vatican is more than enough but book your visit online and take a guide or at least read up the great stuff before entering the Museum

Buy a Roma Pass if you want to use public transport and skip the lines at the Colosseum

Plan a meal at Trastevere but zoom in on the restaurant you want to visit

The walk from Trevi to the Spanish Steps is doable but keep a map on hand

You can visit Rome entirely on your own. There are lots of on line resources to tap before you make that first step.
Ciao Roma!
How to make your trip to Rome truly wonderful – Part 1

October 21, 2013

Solo in Rome

Last week I had the opportunity of visiting Italy although I had to do it on my own. I am quite used to sight seeing on my own since I always tag along with Hubby Dear like accompanied baggage on his business trips. And while he is busy doing business, I am busy discovering different cities. But this time it was different: I was travelling solo.

[bctt tweet=”Travelling alone is a great experience especially when you’ve been forewarned by anyone who’s ever been abroad to keep looking over your shoulder to see what is happening or likely to happen.” username=”via unishta”]

The end result is that you land up becoming completely paranoid and look upon every person as a potential threat/thug or thief and keep feeling you’ve forgotten something but can’t quite remember what it is!

Arriverdici Mumbai

I actually felt like Christopher Columbus embarking on his epic voyage as I wheeled my trolley into Mumbai’s Chattrapati International Airport. Getting into Munich the flight was empty and after a relaxing half hour at Mumbai Airport’s Clipper lounge (run by the Oberoi’s) I was looking forward to a good night’s rest on the plane. Unfortunately this was not really possible because the passenger in the seat in front tilted his seat back into my nose so that I had to slip in and out with a 45 degree back bend each time I visited the toilet. This inconvenience and the bad food, awful in flight entertainment and the general fear of the unknown that seemed to loom larger and larger with each passing mile, made the 7 1/2 hour flight intolerable and I was glad when the plane landed at Munich half an hour earlier than scheduled.

I made a quick dash through Passport Control and after a hurried pit stop ran to the boarding gate only to find that my flight was three hours later!! So I sat at a Breakfast bar and nibbled on some sandwiches and coffee only because I wanted to charge my mobile phone which needed to be fully ready to take on the new SIM card which I had to load the moment I arrived in Roma.

Each experience makes you wiser and from my last experience I not only became wiser but poorer as well as I had to pay a whopping bill as I had activated my International Data Roaming. This I realised was a complete con game and a major source of revenue for the service providers because even though my phone use was minimal, my phone bill was astronomical because the applications that ran in the background kept downloading or looking for data to download whether I wanted it or not! So this time round, much much wiser, I decided to use a local SIM.

The onward flight to Rome was thankfully uneventful and I was glad I had re-fuelled at the Airport since the snack we got looked suspiciously like regurgitated porridge as it was a Yoghurt Muesli with pear and apple bits.

BenvenutoRoma

I wanted to travel into Roma by the superfast Leonardo Express and couldn’t help grinning as I crossed the first hurdle of operating a self service kiosk and getting into a train full of passengers with luggage.

Though we reached Roma Termini 8 minutes later than scheduled, there was enough time for me to get to my hotel, dump my bag and visit the Vatican. So like every other tourist I got off the train and began dragging my strolley down the cobbled street. The hotel was not really far from the station but as I had to read street names, follow the map, look over my shoulder for potential thieves and thugs,

it took longer than I expected and I was shocked to find myself in front of an imposing wooden door with a knocker as big as my face. I looked up and found a sign which said I had to ring the bell to go to the hotel. I rang the bell not once but twice, and even spoke to the door which didn’t speak back till I realised that when I rang the bell, there was a slight click of the door opening…. So I pushed it open and found myself inside a passageway which led to a run down staircase and a lift which announced that it could only be used by one person taking up one bag at a time! The hotel, if it could be called that, was a bit of a let down considering that it had won an award on Trip Advisor. But its location was excellent and its staff could speak English. They also were extremely helpful in terms of travel tips.

But the Giuliana is not an establishment I would really recommend especially since Anna Shetty had stayed at a spotlessly clean equally well located place for half the price even in high tourist season.

In search of the Vatican City

Rome is truly the eternal city for it is inundated with tourists all the year round as I found during my visit to the Vatican. Even though October is not high season, there were tourists surging around. Luckily, I had pre-booked my visit to the Vatican and could avoid the long queues and go straight inside.

Since the underground is the fastest way to get anywhere, I took the Metro from Republicca and got off at Cipro, the stop closest to the Vatican Museum. Once there, I realised that ground reality is quite different from map reading and with no idea at all of how the land lies, I landed up walking much more than I’d bargained for. Inside the Vatican Museum though, things were better organised. But I’d recommend a guided tour to get because I got quite lost with all the exhibits. I ended up going down endless corridors and staircases in search of the Capella Sistine which was at the end of a labyrinthian queue.

There were hundreds and thousands of people walking slowly shoulder to shoulder, a stream of humanity going through a clogged pipe line. Some were pure tourists, some art afficionados and some ardent devotees. There were old people shuffling, some muttering prayers others slowly taking in all the beauty that abounded , transported to another plane of spiritual ecstasy as we passed painting after painting of religious significance. While the Sistine Chapel was glorious and magnificent it seemed disappointingly small and what really took my breath away was the Basilica of St. Peter across the courtyard. Now that was truly breathtaking and simply fabulous.

Getting back to the Hotel via underground ( this time catching the train at Ottavio) was another crazy maze of wrong turns and my feet were ready to fall off when I got off at Roma Termini.

A Pizza in Rome

Ideally I would have loved to go back to the hotel and sleep but not before I had an operational SIM card and since Anna Shetty had specifically warned me to get one from WIND , I had to make sure it was WIND only that I fitted onto my phone. When I finally got the card I went down to a local pizzeria just across the street from the Hotel. This tiny hole in the wall also sported a Trip Advisor recommendation. However, what really drew me to the place was the fact that only locals patronised it, unlike the other pizzerias which have a distinct ” Tourists only” vibe. I couldn’t hoist myself on the tall stools at the counters but munched away on the yummiest pizza ever ……..

And so on Day 1 I made several discoveries:
– Trip Advisor recommendations are not always reliable
– always take a guided tour of the Vatican to truly appreciate all the masterpieces that abound. Rick Steves does not always work.
– only eat at a local pizzeria if you can sit on the stools
– travelling by Metro is easy but be prepared to walk lots

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