Vignettes from a Small Town in Maharashtra

The Maratha kingdom had a few Brahmin chieftains and the rulers of Bhor were one of them . A small Princely state, its ruler was worthy of a 9 gun salute.

It seems strangely coincidental that today’s papers announced the passing away of the 13th Raja of Bhor, HH Shrimant Chintamanrao alias Abaraje Pantsachiv, on Monday morning at his Pune residence. He was 85.

The dark old hills of the Sahyadri mountain range form the perfect backdrop for the small town of Bhor, nestled among lush green flat land in Pune district .

The capital of a once princely state, the main town ( at least the part I saw) consists of a sad looking Main Street ending at a gateway to the Town Square .

The gate itself was a fairly recent addition to the town, constructed by HH Chintamanrao in 1937 to commemorate his visit to the UK for the coronation of George VI and Queen Elizabeth (the parents of the present Queen).

I was there on the day before my ambitronic birthday to sort out a personal matter.

Though the heat was rising with the sun, people still wore their sweaters and what lifted my heart was the once familiar typical rural Maharashtrian attire – loose white pyjamas and stiffly starched white caps. Accessorised with rustic looking Kolhapuri chappals and a bag, these men were often seen in the outskirts of Pune city, but of late this dress has become a rarity.

Doesn’t this solid doorway look impressive and grand?

The town square as it were is made up of the Palace and three identical buildings which now house government offices.

The square is dominated by a beautiful palace made of brick, stone and wood with fine carvings and details. Sadly the palace’s current occupants seem to have scant respect for history and heritage and have left it to rot bit by bit.

The rest of the square is made up of buildings in slightly better shape – possibly because they were still in use as Govt. offices .

On the day I visited, a shoot was going on and we weren’t allowed access beyond the central courtyard.

It is a shame that the palace is in such a state of disrepair because it has been quite a popular location for period movies in Bollywood. Most recently it was used to shoot large parts of the 2015 blockbuster Bajirao and Mastani.

Surely the palace authorities could use the money from renting out this property for its maintenance so that it really looks like a royal residence rather than a ghost of its former self?

It may interest you to know that gun salutes given by the British indicated the importance of a native ruler .

This brief trip to Bhor took me back to my childhood.

Growing up in Pune, my family made many weekend trips to neighbouring towns. I was taken back to another time when the roads were bumpy and narrow, being squashed in the back seat with my brother, trying to read the names on the milestones as they zipped by, eating jam and egg sandwiches under a tree, chasing away the buzzing flies and and experiencing the charm of rural Maharashtra working its seductive magic.

Ciao

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Comments

2 responses to “Vignettes from a Small Town in Maharashtra”

  1. Well written and interesting
    Give free rein to your talent and write more about locales you hàve travelled to and organize so you could publish as a travel novella
    Good luck and keep going dear

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  2. […] month I made a day trip to Bhor , a sleepy rural town near Pune […]

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