• Mai Bedekar was distraught. Her only daughter was getting married to a man she did not approve of and there was nothing she could do about it. In small town Kolhapur of post Independent India all she could really do was hide her head in shame – shame because her daughter was marrying out of caste and shame because she was not broad minded or modern enough to accept the changes in society. At least that is what Tai Borker told her.

    “Come on Mai, be a bit more progressive. After all isn’t that what we Brahmins are known for? Our modern outlook ? How can you still be bound in the past? ”
    But Mai was not convinced. Her daughter Lata was her pride and joy . The darling of the family . Her brothers doted on her as did her late father . She was smart and beautiful, an MA in English and was much sought after within the community. But Lata was struck by Cupid’s arrow and had lost her heart to her college sweetheart . Gopal Gupte who undoubtedly looked breathtakingly handsome in his Air Force uniform was known to be a darling of a boy. But he was not a Brahmin boy and not worthy of her daughter’s love.  Why couldn’t Lata be the dutiful daughter and listen to what her mother said?

    Unfortunately all Mai’s pleading fell on deaf ears especially since Lata had the backing of her neighbour Tai Borker. And Tai Borker was a woman to reckon with. No one messed with her. Tai was the eldest daughter of the town’s most successful lawyer and the widow of another equally successful lawyer. In spite of the fact that she was “uneducated” she was well read and well respected. And generally when Tai decreed something it was accepted as the gospel truth.

    And Tai had decreed that she, a Brahmin widow, would not only support Lata and Gopal but would also perform the religious ceremonies celebrating a Hindu wedding including the “Kanyadaan” , a task traditionally undertaken by the bride’s father.

    So Mai Bedekar sat alone in her darkened prayer room, and begged to God to right the wrong, to heal the wound inside her, she prayed for justice , however long in the future while Lata and Gopal went around the sacred fire. The tiny lamp in the devghar flickered and Mai counted her prayer beads but still she couldn’t quieten her racing heart.

    One by one Tai Borker’s children got married. Each one of them unhappily so.

    Twenty years later the first of Tai Borker’s grand-children got married. It was an arranged match but a wrong match. The marriage was stormy and both parties were unhappy. They stayed together only because of the child they had and also because divorce was still an ugly word.

    Two years later, Tai’s first grandson got married. His too was an arranged match that was terribly mismatched and terribly unhappy. The grandson threw out his wife and fought a bitter divorce battle for ten years.

    The second grandson got married and was unhappy for the next fifty years.

    The third grandson refused to get married as did a grand daughter.

    The third, fourth and fifth grand daughters were unhappily married. Two of them divorced their spouses, while one waited it out.

    But the spirit of Mai Bedekar was still not appeased…….

    Tai Borker was by now long since dead yet one of her great-grand-son’s died mysteriously when he was just twenty years old.

    And Tai’s great-grand-daughter married against her parents’ wishes encouraged by others including family, those who clapped and cheered while the mother’s heart broke into a thousand pieces.

    Mai Bedekar’s soul was now at peace. What goes round comes round. And another cycle began to turn.

     

  • Image for shop selling French Fries
    Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx which serves the best French Fries in Amsterdam

    As an inveterate foodie, I had three items on my menu to during my recent trip to Amsterdam: Looking for  The best Noodles, Apple Pies and French Fries

    The best Fries in Amsterdam

    Firstly, French Fries are not French but Flemish ( or Belgian to the initiated) and are found in a tiny street off the mad buzz of Kaalverstraat the street of high fashion off the historic Dam Square. As you make your way past this mad street of shoppers looking for bargains in shoes and jackets, your nose will suddenly be assailed by the strong smell of chips frying . At any given time there is a long line queuing up for the fries that are truly golden brown, piping hot and delicious . And when they are

    “[bctt tweet=”The smallest serving is large enough to leave you stuffed and full, ready to march on ahead for the next hour or so” username=”viaunishta”].”

    Alas, not for me the BEST fries in Amsterdam but the next best which are to be found right on Damrak opposite the oldest/first stock exchange in the world –  at Manneken Pis giving due credit to the fries’ Belgian origins. But I’m not complaining. With a light drizzle falling, nothing could be more comforting than the slightly crunchy and yummily munchy french fry dipped in creamy mayo.

     Apple Pies in Amsterdam

    During his visit to Mumbai, my Dutch friend Marcel had told me that the best apple pie in Amsterdam is in Cafe  Papeneiland, famous for its home made apple pie. It is now even more famous because Bill Clinton bought one specially to take back home with him. Now a Dutch apple pie is truly the best in the world – crisp outer pastry, a tart spicy apple filling and a generous dollop of whipped cream…………But this will have to wait for another time for we truly ran out of time to eat……..

    The best Noodles in Amsterdam

    I did achieve ONE GOAL :  best Chinese in Amsterdam at  New King smack in the Red Light District in the Chinatown of Amsterdam. Small and cramped though it was, the place was vibrant  with young and old chomping to their hearts’ content. The cuisine was typically Mandarin, the service impeccable and the company divine. So the next time you are in Amsterdam and craving for a bit of noodle go to New King. It won’t hurt to make a reservation though to avoid any disappointment.

  • On a two day trip to Holland, we spent one day in Amsterdam and the second day at the Hague. 

    One day at the Hague

    Image for waiting at the platform
    Waiting for the train at the platform at Centraal Station
    Image for buying a ticket to the Hague
    Buying a ticket is both easy and quick

    It was a wonderful sunny afternoon when we travelled to the Hague to see it the way the Dutch see it. Since our hotel was conveniently located near Central Station, the best way to get there was by train which is exactly what we did. The newly renovated old station is like everything else Dutch, easy and simple to navigate.

    Close to the Hague central station, the Nether...
    Close to the Hague central station, the Netherlands (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

    Trains to the Dutch capital leave every 15 minutes or so . Even going by second class is comfortable and we settled down to a 45 minute trip. At the head of the train we were met by our delightful hosts who decided to take us around the city by foot. Stepping out we were welcomed by a cool gust of air, making us aware of the the North sea close by.

     

    Herrings at a kiosk

     

    Image for a street in the Hague
    A quiet residential street in the Hague

    Our camera needed a memory chip so we walked down the shopping streets which were super crowded as most people were free to shop on a  Sunday .  The Hague is distinctly different from Amsterdam and like all capital cities of the world has a regal air about it. Home to different embassies and the International Court of Justice, the streets are milling with people of all nationalities. We quickly found what we wanted and walked down to the Binnenhof or the Dutch parliament. Just outside the complex of buildings we had  herring at the iconic  Haringkraam , the best introduction to this uniquely Dutch experience – slipping down a pickled herring (stuffed with raw onions) held by its tail . [ctt title=”” tweet=”This place is hard to miss and this experience is truly a MUST for an authentic Dutch experience.” coverup=”20yBC”]

    We then walked down to the Escher Museum which is housed in the original palace. This museum is a delight with its interactive displays where the floor crackles as you step on it and optical illusions that make you the tallest person in the room or have you trapped in a box! The museum also has delightfully whimsical chandeliers like guitars or pipes to add to the charm of the old palace.

    Image for neo-Gothic Fountain
    The marvellous gilded neo-gothic fountain in the inner courtyard of the Binnenhof
    Image for the Binnenhof
    The magnificent parliament buildings

    Our next stop was the parliament where we were given a crash course in Dutch politics. It was amazing that in this day of terrorists and paranoia we could walk through this place without any “security” checks or clearances.

    Image for beer in a Hague square

    Tired with all this walking , we naturally  gravitated to one of the squares popular with both locals and tourists alike for a glass of chilled Belgian Beer. Our hostess being Belgian informed us that unlike Dutch beer, Belgian beer was stronger and more robust. So we sat in the sunshine sharing a glass of beer and munching on another Dutch treat – the bitterballen. It was idyllic – a mild sun slowly slipping down, the square a buzz with people, conversation flowing , steaming hot crunchy meat balls and  chilled beer.

     

    Haute cuisine at des Indes

    This perfect day was wound down with a fine meal at the Hotel des Indes  near the Escher Museum. This historic, luxury hotel has hosted many heads of State,witnessed  treaties signed and seen many a pleasant  gatherings of  friends and family. Des Indes is famous for its high tea but since we wanted to see the Museum which closes by 5, it wouldn’t have really been possible. So we went with the next best which was a fabulous 5 course meal. With exotic food like duck and beetroot souffle, each course was washed down with a sorbet andserved with a complementing wine . The wine flowed so did the conversation so by the end of the meal we were all literally flying one foot above the ground.

    So it was quite an experience – raw herring and haute cuisine all in a day!

    Image for BellyBytes

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