• Alibag: the ritzy destination

    With everyone who is anyone in Bombay having a second home at Alibag, it has become almost de rigeur for anyone who wants to be someone to have a house over there. However, ever since the tsunami struck the Indian coastline  way back in December 2004, our government has woken up to the fact that this too is a possible disaster and the Ministry of Environment & Forests have come up with Coastal Zoning Regulation which prohibit the construction of any dwelling up to 500 m of the coast. This meant that all those beach front houses are a thing of the past and anyone who wants a beach front property will have to make sure it is at least a km deep into the coastline so that a beach shack can be built. Of course it helps if the property already has a dwelling in place, a ramshackle hut notwithstanding, as any existing authorised structure will enable the new buyer to ostensibly repair the old existing ruin and make a swanky new beach house which will be the envy of all who see it.

    Because once you build your fancy house, you need to have your fancy friends to grace your infinity pool, sunbathe on your rattan poolside furniture, partake of your chilled French wines and relax by your barbecue pit. If you are really fancy, you will have speed boats or catamarans to ferry your guests from the Gateway to Mandwa jetty from where you will whisk them off in your swanky old SUV while if you are not so swanky you will bring them across by one of the ferry boat operators ( PNP or Maldar). But with beach front properties hard to come by and with labour even harder to round up ( all the old labourers have now become millionaires overnight having sold their patches of rice fields and coconut groves to townies) many people are now developing apartment complexes in Alibag and its environs.
    I have never been one for driving miles and miles for peace and quiet : I’d much rather drive down to the middle of town and laze by the poolside in the Club which is so quiet that you can hear a fly buzz. Actually I am petrified of the water and hate swimming and it is something I did only out of an instinct of self preservation. Also, once the kids grew out of their swimming costumes, I was glad to get rid of mine and would much rather watch the pool from a distance. So then of what use to me was a flat in Alibag? None , as Hubby dear told me rather emphatically. But I still thought it was worth making a trip to see this resort-to-be simply because one could be only “invited” to purchase a flat in this property.

    Boat trip to Alibag

    So yesterday morning at 7.30 I made my way to the pier at the Gateway and waited for the PNP ferry to arrive. Getting on the ferry was not as simple as one imagined – one had to board it via another ferry which bobbed up and down, rhythmically  going away from the jetty so that one had to literally time one’s jump from terra firma to a slippery wet boat deck. Of course there were two skinny attendants  whose sweaty hands you could hold on to but if the bump was particularly hard, there was a chance of slipping into the murky waters splashing below. Now this operation had to be repeated once more to get onto the PNP and yet again at the jetty at Mandwa.
    The inside of the PNP was a pleasant change from the old wooden ferry boats of yore but despite the tinted windows , the airline seats and the airconditioning, the strong fumes of the diesel engine can get to you. They did get to my sister in law who is genetically programmed to motion sickness and preferred standing on the upper deck in the open air on the way back. Since the boats were already out on the water a week beyond the normal schedule, the sea was already rough and nasty. The journey out wasn’t too bad though my stomach did heave a bit but on the way home it was down right scary. I hate to think of how uncomfortable it must have been later in the day as the sea gets even more angry as the day progresses.
    After 50 minutes we reached Mandwa and made the 200 m trek to the bus stand where our car was waiting to take us to the resort. It was only 9.30 but the sun was already strong. The roads were empty and we took another fifteen minutes to get to Chondi town from where we had to turn off for the apartment complex to be. Going down a 10″ wide strip of thinly metalled road we finally came upon this plot of land cordoned off with green netting. And that was it. 4 acres of land with 4 mango trees and two structures which looked distinctly like toilet blocks. Of course I had to imagine the whole complex once it was ready but honestly,  I’d have to be crazy to  come here to swim in a pool after an hour’s boat ride or a  three hour road trip. And all to stay for a weekend in a flat the size of my bed room for a peek of a hillock. And as I get older, my bones creakier and  my eyesight weaker, it would make more sense to enjoy the view from my home instead.
    But I’m glad I got to see it for myself. I can only imagine the glee on Hubby Dear’s face as I tell him that once more his instinct proved to be right after all.
    PNP Maritime Services Pvt. Ltd. 
    Phone No.s : Alibag –             (02141) 225403      , Mandawa –             (02141) 237087      ,
    Mumbai –             (022) 22885220      , 22885221, 
     
    Service starts from Gateway of India at 8.10 hrs with a boat leaving every 2 hours, the last one being at 18.30. The last boat from Mandwa leaves at  19.30. Cost of a ticket is Rs. 120/- per person
     
    MALDAR Catamarans
    Phone No.s : Alibag –             (02141) 223746      , Mandawa – (02141) 2237464,
    Mumbai –             (022) 22829695      
     
    Service starts from Gateway of India at )8.30 hrs with a boat leaving every 2 hours, the last one being at 17.45. The last boat from Mandwa leaves at  18.45. Cost of a ticket is Rs. 120/- per person.
     
     
    Both ferry boat operators provide a bus from Mandwa jetty to Alibag town.
     
  • [bctt tweet=”Things only happen when they are meant to happen” username=”viaunishta”]

     To market to market

    There was a time in my life when Anna Shetty gave piano lessons to two Korean children. While the children learnt music, their mother Nam Ju, brushed up her conversational English with me. We spoke about many things – our daily lives, the cities that we lived in and a whole host of other things.
    During one of our conversations, she expressed a desire to visit the flea market or chor bazaar. She couldn’t believe that there was a place where stolen goods were sold so openly on the streets ! Many of her friends had picked up beautiful collectibles from there and she wanted to pick up some too.
    Image for Chor Bazar
    An antique porcelain figurine

    That’s how we planned a trip to the flea market .

    Several times we  had made a plan to visit,  only to  cancel at the last moment with excuses such as  – “My daughter is not well, The driver hasn’t come” from her end and  ” Something has happened at the last moment and I can’t make it” from mine.

    Image for Chor Bazar
                 Glass handis and antique lamps

    Finally we did make it!

    As I picked her up, Nam Ju had her apprehensions. It was a hot and muggy day and she was already wilting before we stepped into her air conditioned car.

    She cheerfully pulled out a disposable surgical mask and showed me with glee how she was prepared for the onslaught of germs and bacteria. She also pointed out a set of fresh clothes to change into should she get drenched in sweat .

    I was a bit stunned – surely my city is not that bad?? But knowing the foreigners’ paranoia, I held my counsel and we proceeded through this hot and humid city to Mutton Street.

     Mutton Street -Mumbai’s flea market

    The street gets its name from the original  shops that sold meat. Today although you may see the odd goat, tied up by its owner as it is fattened for Id, but the street is now, the place to browse for “antiques”.
    Approaching it from Gol Deval we got off Null Bazaar and went down Mutton Street aka Chor Bazaar. It was almost 11.30 but there was not a shopper in sight. I was actually beginning to get worried when I asked a shop keeper why the place was so deserted. “The season was down” , he told me and in fact this was the best time to buy anything. 

     Walking down memory lane

    Nam Ju was fascinated by the shops  and actually showed interest in some . She loved the brightly coloured Handis we saw at Taherally’s and the brass stand alone reproduction lamp at Al Anwar’s. The shopkeepers themselves were quite transparent about the “newness” of their wares . They told us that much of their stuff was not genuine antique but actually reproductions or imitations of the original. And most of the stuff wasn’t stolen – instead they were old things sold by their owners when they moved on to smaller apartments.
    Along the way we passed a vendor of old laces and sari borders, lots of porcelain knobs, tiles and enamel advertisements. A shop that particularly fascinated me was Bollywood Bazar where Wahid sold genuine Lobby Cards of Hollywood movies , posters of old Hindi movies, vinyl records and all kinds of movie memorabilia. This is a dream for movie memorabilia buffs.

    At Karachi Gift store we found some interesting pieces of furniture and the lady in charge said that she was willing to finish off the pieces in any way we wanted – distressed, metallised or just plain varnish.

    Outside one of the curio shops near Taherally’s ( I gave Nam Ju the card so I don’t have the exact address), we saw two foreigners sitting in front of an urli. Nam Ju was interested in buying one so we went inside. Following the advice of one of the ladies we went further and further inside the shop to find that we were three rooms deep of masks and statues and boxes and all kinds of fascinating stuff. This shop is definitely worth visiting because it is a veritable Aladdin’s cave.

    Masks and statues animals in wood , marble and bronze were a plenty in this shop near Taherally’s.

    Shops worth visiting

    Al Anwar LampShop ( oil lamps, electric lamps & wall lamps
    121 Mutton Street, Bhendi Bazar Mumbai 400003
    Tel : 2345 5087
    Taherally’s ( chandeliers, light fittings, silver ware, paintings, curios and wooden furniture)
    28 Mutton Street Mumbai 400003
    Tel : 2347 1169
    Bollywood Bazar (Vintage Bollywood & Hollywood memorabilia, Posters, Lobby cards, Photo Stills & Booklets)
    38 Mutton Street, Mumbai 400003
    Tel : 2347 2427
    Karachi Gift Stores
    102 Mutton Street, Khara Tank Road Shop No4
    Tel : 2347 2646
    email : tapaswiarts@gmail.com
    The two hours went by so fast that Nam Ju didn’t realise that she had forgotten to wear her mask. She also didn’t  change into the fresh set of clothes she’d brought along just in case she needed to!

    Shopping tips

    • Chor Bazaar is closed on Fridays
    • Take a cab instead or get dropped off at Null Bazar because Pay & Park doesn’t exist over here.
    Chor Bazaar has changed over the years: it has become cleaner and more organised. The shop keepers insist that you can take a car as  shops that  pour out into the streets are fined. Though the streets are not spotless, the shops are less higgeldy piggeldy . There are a few goats but no stray dogs around.  The street smells less smelly and the shopkeepers can spot a genuine buyer a mile off. They don’t  fawn over and pester passers by to step inside and “just see madam”.
    [bctt tweet=”If you have the inclination, Chor Bazaar is the perfect place to spend an afternoon in Mumbai” username=”viaunishta”]
     Image for Mumbai's chor bazaar
    Happy Shopping!
    Image for BellyBytes
  • The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Poster

    With limited movie options, my movie gang decided on “The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel” playing in town these days. Used to seeing India portrayed in very poor light by foreign film makers, I was not really expecting to come home happy . The film starts with an assortment of wrinkled and crinkled English retirees who are at a bit of a loose end in their lives. One of them a recently retired Judge has an agenda and wants to visit India with a specific purpose but the rest just happen to come to The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel by pure chance.

    The story line is predictable and reminiscent of EM Forster’s novels, where a group  of dysfunctional British tourists  land up tying the loose ends of their lives in a strange and exotic place. Predictably the hotel is not what it was set out to be, and the tourists already exposed to the inefficiencies of an Indian flight that never took off  and a bus ride into Jaipur are shocked with the in your face colour, clamour and crowds that are India. It is strange how as the movie progresses, the excessive crowds and filth are toned down with the final scene ending with an efficiently run retirement home managed with British thoroughness by Muriel Donnelly, a former housekeeper, played to perfection by Dame Maggie Smith.

    The movie is far from perfect though – the flight to Jaipur was cancelled because of bad weather conditions but the group landed up in a Jaipur that was decidedly sunny and bright.
    The bus that the group travelled in was not the only mode of transport available – they could have well taken the train which is far more comfortable or even a luxury bus.
    The servant who befriends Mrs. Donnelly ( or is it the other way round?) was decidedly not from Jaipur. Surely they could have got someone more authentic?
    Sunny calling his mother “mummyji” sounds facetious while Mummyji  (Lilette Dubey who is now getting typecast) herself, seemed too “tiptop” i.e.  sophisticated to be the mother of a so called hic manager.
    Considering that the guests had booked in advance, even the most basic hotelier would have arranged to make the rooms ready for his guests and not had beds covered in dust and dust covers.

    But India was just a backdrop for the main story – dealing with old age. Being old and being alone is a problem we all have to face. For this group of British retirees India was a good option but what about Indian old people? With many parents being abandoned by their children who have gone overseas for better prospects, and the breakdown of the traditional Indian joint family, we too will have to face this problem.

    With an excellent cast ( Judi Dench, Tom Wilkinson) and crisp dialogue which has you laughing in parts, is a must see for all to have an idea of what can happen in the future and even though the theme is depressing, I did come home with a smile.

    As Sunny (Dev Patel), the manager says ” it all turns out right in the end and if it isn’t right yet, it is not the end!”

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