• Waking up

    I don’t know why but this morning the first line of a hymn sung back in School Assembly kept running through my mind :

    New every morning is the love
    Our wakening and uprising prove
    Through sleep and darkness safely brought
    Restored to life and power and thought.

    I never believed my mother-in-law when she used to say  that older people needed less sleep and would get quite irritated with that sliver of light peeping out from under my door waking me up at the unearthly hour of 3 am. Even that was too early for an early morning riser like me and I would toss and turn and wait again to fall asleep till daybreak came. I would often make up this sleep deficit by a siesta in the afternoon.

    A restful sleep
    is more important and precious 
    than a forty carat diamond  ring. 
    A short siesta in a darkened room
    The fan a-whirring slowly.
    Two sleepy babes curled up tight
    from time to time
    Look out to me with half closed eyes,
    Reach out to hold my hand.


    Those days have gone
    I rest alone 
    With memories that come flooding in:
    Those early mornings long ago 
    You woke me up with words 
    That still ring in my ears each day – 
    “Mama Wake Up!
    It’s morning!” 
    Your sweet smile
    And twinkly eyes
    Would make me want to
    Seize the day.

  • Alibag: the ritzy destination

    With everyone who is anyone in Bombay having a second home at Alibag, it has become almost de rigeur for anyone who wants to be someone to have a house over there. However, ever since the tsunami struck the Indian coastline  way back in December 2004, our government has woken up to the fact that this too is a possible disaster and the Ministry of Environment & Forests have come up with Coastal Zoning Regulation which prohibit the construction of any dwelling up to 500 m of the coast. This meant that all those beach front houses are a thing of the past and anyone who wants a beach front property will have to make sure it is at least a km deep into the coastline so that a beach shack can be built. Of course it helps if the property already has a dwelling in place, a ramshackle hut notwithstanding, as any existing authorised structure will enable the new buyer to ostensibly repair the old existing ruin and make a swanky new beach house which will be the envy of all who see it.

    Because once you build your fancy house, you need to have your fancy friends to grace your infinity pool, sunbathe on your rattan poolside furniture, partake of your chilled French wines and relax by your barbecue pit. If you are really fancy, you will have speed boats or catamarans to ferry your guests from the Gateway to Mandwa jetty from where you will whisk them off in your swanky old SUV while if you are not so swanky you will bring them across by one of the ferry boat operators ( PNP or Maldar). But with beach front properties hard to come by and with labour even harder to round up ( all the old labourers have now become millionaires overnight having sold their patches of rice fields and coconut groves to townies) many people are now developing apartment complexes in Alibag and its environs.
    I have never been one for driving miles and miles for peace and quiet : I’d much rather drive down to the middle of town and laze by the poolside in the Club which is so quiet that you can hear a fly buzz. Actually I am petrified of the water and hate swimming and it is something I did only out of an instinct of self preservation. Also, once the kids grew out of their swimming costumes, I was glad to get rid of mine and would much rather watch the pool from a distance. So then of what use to me was a flat in Alibag? None , as Hubby dear told me rather emphatically. But I still thought it was worth making a trip to see this resort-to-be simply because one could be only “invited” to purchase a flat in this property.

    Boat trip to Alibag

    So yesterday morning at 7.30 I made my way to the pier at the Gateway and waited for the PNP ferry to arrive. Getting on the ferry was not as simple as one imagined – one had to board it via another ferry which bobbed up and down, rhythmically  going away from the jetty so that one had to literally time one’s jump from terra firma to a slippery wet boat deck. Of course there were two skinny attendants  whose sweaty hands you could hold on to but if the bump was particularly hard, there was a chance of slipping into the murky waters splashing below. Now this operation had to be repeated once more to get onto the PNP and yet again at the jetty at Mandwa.
    The inside of the PNP was a pleasant change from the old wooden ferry boats of yore but despite the tinted windows , the airline seats and the airconditioning, the strong fumes of the diesel engine can get to you. They did get to my sister in law who is genetically programmed to motion sickness and preferred standing on the upper deck in the open air on the way back. Since the boats were already out on the water a week beyond the normal schedule, the sea was already rough and nasty. The journey out wasn’t too bad though my stomach did heave a bit but on the way home it was down right scary. I hate to think of how uncomfortable it must have been later in the day as the sea gets even more angry as the day progresses.
    After 50 minutes we reached Mandwa and made the 200 m trek to the bus stand where our car was waiting to take us to the resort. It was only 9.30 but the sun was already strong. The roads were empty and we took another fifteen minutes to get to Chondi town from where we had to turn off for the apartment complex to be. Going down a 10″ wide strip of thinly metalled road we finally came upon this plot of land cordoned off with green netting. And that was it. 4 acres of land with 4 mango trees and two structures which looked distinctly like toilet blocks. Of course I had to imagine the whole complex once it was ready but honestly,  I’d have to be crazy to  come here to swim in a pool after an hour’s boat ride or a  three hour road trip. And all to stay for a weekend in a flat the size of my bed room for a peek of a hillock. And as I get older, my bones creakier and  my eyesight weaker, it would make more sense to enjoy the view from my home instead.
    But I’m glad I got to see it for myself. I can only imagine the glee on Hubby Dear’s face as I tell him that once more his instinct proved to be right after all.
    PNP Maritime Services Pvt. Ltd. 
    Phone No.s : Alibag –             (02141) 225403      , Mandawa –             (02141) 237087      ,
    Mumbai –             (022) 22885220      , 22885221, 
     
    Service starts from Gateway of India at 8.10 hrs with a boat leaving every 2 hours, the last one being at 18.30. The last boat from Mandwa leaves at  19.30. Cost of a ticket is Rs. 120/- per person
     
    MALDAR Catamarans
    Phone No.s : Alibag –             (02141) 223746      , Mandawa – (02141) 2237464,
    Mumbai –             (022) 22829695      
     
    Service starts from Gateway of India at )8.30 hrs with a boat leaving every 2 hours, the last one being at 17.45. The last boat from Mandwa leaves at  18.45. Cost of a ticket is Rs. 120/- per person.
     
     
    Both ferry boat operators provide a bus from Mandwa jetty to Alibag town.
     
  • [bctt tweet=”Things only happen when they are meant to happen” username=”viaunishta”]

     To market to market

    There was a time in my life when Anna Shetty gave piano lessons to two Korean children. While the children learnt music, their mother Nam Ju, brushed up her conversational English with me. We spoke about many things – our daily lives, the cities that we lived in and a whole host of other things.
    During one of our conversations, she expressed a desire to visit the flea market or chor bazaar. She couldn’t believe that there was a place where stolen goods were sold so openly on the streets ! Many of her friends had picked up beautiful collectibles from there and she wanted to pick up some too.
    Image for Chor Bazar
    An antique porcelain figurine

    That’s how we planned a trip to the flea market .

    Several times we  had made a plan to visit,  only to  cancel at the last moment with excuses such as  – “My daughter is not well, The driver hasn’t come” from her end and  ” Something has happened at the last moment and I can’t make it” from mine.

    Image for Chor Bazar
                 Glass handis and antique lamps

    Finally we did make it!

    As I picked her up, Nam Ju had her apprehensions. It was a hot and muggy day and she was already wilting before we stepped into her air conditioned car.

    She cheerfully pulled out a disposable surgical mask and showed me with glee how she was prepared for the onslaught of germs and bacteria. She also pointed out a set of fresh clothes to change into should she get drenched in sweat .

    I was a bit stunned – surely my city is not that bad?? But knowing the foreigners’ paranoia, I held my counsel and we proceeded through this hot and humid city to Mutton Street.

     Mutton Street -Mumbai’s flea market

    The street gets its name from the original  shops that sold meat. Today although you may see the odd goat, tied up by its owner as it is fattened for Id, but the street is now, the place to browse for “antiques”.
    Approaching it from Gol Deval we got off Null Bazaar and went down Mutton Street aka Chor Bazaar. It was almost 11.30 but there was not a shopper in sight. I was actually beginning to get worried when I asked a shop keeper why the place was so deserted. “The season was down” , he told me and in fact this was the best time to buy anything. 

     Walking down memory lane

    Nam Ju was fascinated by the shops  and actually showed interest in some . She loved the brightly coloured Handis we saw at Taherally’s and the brass stand alone reproduction lamp at Al Anwar’s. The shopkeepers themselves were quite transparent about the “newness” of their wares . They told us that much of their stuff was not genuine antique but actually reproductions or imitations of the original. And most of the stuff wasn’t stolen – instead they were old things sold by their owners when they moved on to smaller apartments.
    Along the way we passed a vendor of old laces and sari borders, lots of porcelain knobs, tiles and enamel advertisements. A shop that particularly fascinated me was Bollywood Bazar where Wahid sold genuine Lobby Cards of Hollywood movies , posters of old Hindi movies, vinyl records and all kinds of movie memorabilia. This is a dream for movie memorabilia buffs.

    At Karachi Gift store we found some interesting pieces of furniture and the lady in charge said that she was willing to finish off the pieces in any way we wanted – distressed, metallised or just plain varnish.

    Outside one of the curio shops near Taherally’s ( I gave Nam Ju the card so I don’t have the exact address), we saw two foreigners sitting in front of an urli. Nam Ju was interested in buying one so we went inside. Following the advice of one of the ladies we went further and further inside the shop to find that we were three rooms deep of masks and statues and boxes and all kinds of fascinating stuff. This shop is definitely worth visiting because it is a veritable Aladdin’s cave.

    Masks and statues animals in wood , marble and bronze were a plenty in this shop near Taherally’s.

    Shops worth visiting

    Al Anwar LampShop ( oil lamps, electric lamps & wall lamps
    121 Mutton Street, Bhendi Bazar Mumbai 400003
    Tel : 2345 5087
    Taherally’s ( chandeliers, light fittings, silver ware, paintings, curios and wooden furniture)
    28 Mutton Street Mumbai 400003
    Tel : 2347 1169
    Bollywood Bazar (Vintage Bollywood & Hollywood memorabilia, Posters, Lobby cards, Photo Stills & Booklets)
    38 Mutton Street, Mumbai 400003
    Tel : 2347 2427
    Karachi Gift Stores
    102 Mutton Street, Khara Tank Road Shop No4
    Tel : 2347 2646
    email : tapaswiarts@gmail.com
    The two hours went by so fast that Nam Ju didn’t realise that she had forgotten to wear her mask. She also didn’t  change into the fresh set of clothes she’d brought along just in case she needed to!

    Shopping tips

    • Chor Bazaar is closed on Fridays
    • Take a cab instead or get dropped off at Null Bazar because Pay & Park doesn’t exist over here.
    Chor Bazaar has changed over the years: it has become cleaner and more organised. The shop keepers insist that you can take a car as  shops that  pour out into the streets are fined. Though the streets are not spotless, the shops are less higgeldy piggeldy . There are a few goats but no stray dogs around.  The street smells less smelly and the shopkeepers can spot a genuine buyer a mile off. They don’t  fawn over and pester passers by to step inside and “just see madam”.
    [bctt tweet=”If you have the inclination, Chor Bazaar is the perfect place to spend an afternoon in Mumbai” username=”viaunishta”]
     Image for Mumbai's chor bazaar
    Happy Shopping!
    Image for BellyBytes
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