Ballard Estate has always been one of my favourite neighbourhoods to walk around in. Especially on a Sunday when the streets are ghostly quiet. Occasionally, you might find a cricket match in progress or a photo shoot because this place is ideal to replicate a European locale. Developed by the Bombay Port Trust, specifically as a Business District, with its well laid roads, majestic looking buildings in the neoclassical Edwardian style of the early 20th century, it bears a marked resemblance to London of that time. Being near the docks and the heart of the maritime trade, it once housed shipping companies and headquartered large industrial houses. However, ever since the port shifted to the new JNPT across the harbour, many of the old businesses have gone, making way for high end retail.
While the Port Trust Offices, Seamen’s Club, Foreign Post Office , and L & T still remain, quite a few buildings now house revamped restaurants and luxury good retailers.
A Tourist in my City
My school friend N, who had worked in a travel house in the area soon after college, and I, who had visited that area often as a school kid, wanted to go down memory lane and decided to find out what was new in the area.
We had missed the unique Pier Pop Up in July (offering Mumbaikars a unique experience at the Ballard Pier DownTown Experience Centre). The month-long festival was arranged by a Real Estate company (the House of Hiranandani) , a digital magazine featuring culture and lifestyle events (the Lab Mag) and the Ballard Pier – India’s first world class International Cruise terminal. July was the month the rain was heaviest and as always, I found it difficult to make time to visit it while it was on, so I thought I’d go along now and scope it out. Alas ! It turned out to be literally a pop up and the promised entertainment, food etc was only for that one month.
The Magic of Benaras – TILFI
Slightly disappointed learning that the Downtown Experience Centre was not a permanent fixture, we were a bit thrown and we carried on with our expedition rather aimlessly. Passing by a photo shoot, we came upon a showroom that shouted sheer beauty. It dim lighting and draped fabrics made it hard for us to pass it by. The shop wasn’t open for business but charming young salesperson welcomed us in .
And what a treat we were in for ! Patiently she showed us the different fabrics and products on display. Tilfi is the flagship of a Benares based textile company which specialises in combining traditional craftsmanship with a modern aesthetic. This strategy helps keep alive a handicraft while creating a market that doesn’t want the traditional Mughal inspired floral motifs that Benares fabric is noted for. Deviating from the traditional silk, Tilfi weaves masterpeices in georgette, cotton and linen! There were the traditional brocades and Tanchoi , Phekwa and Sanjhi.
Coffee Time
We continued with our quest for the Grand Hotel, an iconic hotel that I wanted to check out. We came upon Bombay Coffee House that we hadn’t remembered seeing in the past. Apparently it was an Irani cafe called Cafe Model and in its 7 year new avatar was now an all-day breakfast place. And what a popular place it was! We were expecting to be the only customers but were shocked that we had to look for an empty table. The place was buzzing with young people, who it turned out were enthusiastic bikers who found Sunday the only day they could zip around the city. They had stopped by for coffee and conversation and perhaps a bite of the hearty breakfasts available. Apparently, this is a popular hang out for bikers and vintage car enthusiasts who come here Sunday mornings. I must bring Wow Dinga, Little Po and Ms Papaya after a Saturday night stayover.
A Grand Hotel
The hotel was just next door In the same Edwardian style buildings that are reminiscent of London, is the Grand Hotel. Built way back in the early 20th century. It captures the genteel beauty of the neighbourhood despite being cheek by jowl with the docks. We just saw the newly furbished lobby though the manager offered to show us the two meeting rooms and a restaurant that served a buffet breakfast for resident guests and regular meals for others.
Would you like to model for us ?
We continued walking and spotted some activity at a Petrol Pump that reminded me of the Lego one I had as a kid. I just couldn’t get over the 1960’s feel and kept staring at it in fascination. Just then we spotted some activity: there was a photo shoot going on and N was attracted by the folding reflector.
Obviously, we weren’t too subtle about our presence and one of the kids came up to ask and asked us if we would like to model.
This was the weirdest proposition we’d ever had. And I must say I was flattered. I’ve never been particularly photogenic and always come across as stiff and awkward. But personally speaking, I think every young girl needs to model professionally to get that complete polished finishing school look. At least my friends who did a spot of modelling as teenagers have now turned out to be elegant head turning old ‘ladies’.
In any case, modelling, like acting was total taboo in my middle-class home with ears of ‘casting couch’ of getting into ‘wrong company’ being the predominant deterrent. However, now that I’m a grandmother, those fears don’t matter. The only couch I’d need now would be to catnap between takes. And as for the company that’s not going to happen.
Walking into a Furniture Store
N actually was looking for Hamilton Studios, a well know photography studio that was famous for photographing celebrities and royalty. She had once had a photo taken there by her mum.
Actually the studio is pretty easy to spot but since we had entered the precinct from the back, I was completely disoriented. We found ourselves walking into Tianu, a luxury furniture store. It had some beautifully hand crafted furniture and artefacts on display. It also doubled up as an Art Gallery keeping artists’ work for sale.
Finally
By this time we were getting quite restless to get back home. So we had a quick bite at Burma Burma, and made our way back to our respective homes.
But, it was a delightful way to catch up with an old friend – walk and talk while re-discovering our city. I look forward to sharing some more parts of my city especially now that the sun is out.
Ciao,
Twenty- five Seven 
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