Twenty- five Seven

On the way to the Kumbh

February 2, 2025

Despite all the naysayers and bad press, my friends were convinced that faith could move mountains and that we should go ahead with our plans of visiting the Kumbh. S particularly said that we would find a way even though our well thought of itinerary seemed to be doomed.

So we set off on our journey with just a little bit of nervousness but were quite confident that we would be back safely.

FIRST STOP VARANASI

The twinkling lights of Benares

As the plane hovered over Varanasi ( the latest name of the ancient city of Kashi) I was quite excited to see a place that I had long wanted to visit. For some strange reason, I was drawn to its ancient heritage.

The first hiccup

We stepped out into the cold, night air of Varanasi and got into the hotel taxi . We were booked at the centrally located Pearl Courtyard which we imagined to be a Marriott hotel considering the amount we were paying per day. I was a bit flummoxed by how a Marriott property could be in such a prime spot but the mystery was soon sorted out.

The long drive to the city centre ended abruptly with a shock. The taxi driver screeched to a halt along a barricade and gleefully informed us that all vehicular traffic was prohibited from entering the city centre and we had to walk or take a cycle rickshaw!

Cycle rickshaw

Initially appalled at having a man pull us, we were slightly reluctant to get into one. But we really had no option since we had now idea where to walk though helpful passersby did point vaguely in some direction and told us it wasn’t far away. we did look for one because we really had no option. However, we preferred to rely on the navigational skills of the rickshaw puller and hired a cycle rickshaw.

Picture of hotel taken from Hotel Website without permission

The hotel is really very well appointed and the Staff extremely polite and efficient. After settling down we had a delicious vegetarian dinner and decided to set off to see the Kalbhairav temple since it was open till 11 pm and we thought the crowds would be thinner.

At the temple

We took an eRikshaw to the temple and were amazed to find a 2 km-long queue of people waiting in single file down a narrow side lane to enter the temple.

This temple is one of the oldest and most significant temples dedicated to Kaal Bhairav, a fierce avatar of Lord Shiva. “Kaal” means both death and time. According to legend, Brahma and Vishnu were arguing who among them was the more powerful. Brahma boasted that undoubtedly it was him. This so enraged Vishnu that they had a fight. Shiva intervened with a blazing light that made one of Brahma’s heads fall off. The head was caught by Bhairav who was condemned to wander in all the three worlds till finally he reached Kashi. There he was allowed to keep the head down symbolizing Shiva’s power to destroy and transform. Lord Shiva appointed Kaal Bhairav as the guardian of Kashi, with the authority to protect the city

The temple is amidst a maze of narrow streets and we could hardly make out where we were going as we were entering through one of the side entrances. Finally, a priest approached us and offered to take us ahead of the queue.

People were crawling at snail’s pace, shoulder to shoulder , bodies pressed to get a glimpse of the silver idol of Kaal Bhairav. As we made , our way out after a blink-and-miss it moment, I was pushed ahead and slipped on toa step. The momentum made At rip over me and she fell to the side where she twisted her foot. Luckily, there was no major damage and she bravely went ahead to ne of the many shrines in the complex: the shrine dedicated to the Nine Planets. Here we were allowed to circumambulate around the platform and offer a lit lamp along with our prayers.

Tired and a bit shaken by the fall, we decided to head back home in the eRickshaw that was luckily waiting for us.

Since we arrived into Varanasi at a very auspicious time of the Kumbh, no online visits were allowed. Because of this, the temple was open till 11 at night.

At normal times, however, one can book an online visit and have a much calmer and more peaceful darshan.

Apart from the transport restrictions, we were forbidden to take our mobile phones etc so these images I’ve used are from the net. Apologies for not taking prior permission

Despite the long day, we were happy that our trip was off to a good start.

Ciao,
Getting ready for Kumbh

January 23, 2025
The Kumbh Mela ( or the Festival of the Sacred Pitcher as it is called on the official website) is a gathering of devotees at a special time when the planets are favourably aligned to bathe in the rivers at four sacred places : Nashik, on the banks of the Godavari, Ujjain, on the banks of the Shipra, Haridwar on the banks of the Ganges , and at Praygraj at the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and the underground Saraswati.

These are the places where drops of nectar from the pot fell during the fight between the Gods and Demons. The festival is held every four years in rotation and this year it is being held in Prayagraj or Allahabad.

This is a special Maha Kumbh which occurs once every 144 years when all the Planets are lined up in a celestial Parade of the Planets.

A chance remark often sets forth an amazing journey.

If I’ve been silent so far, it’s because I’ve been preoccupied with many things ( nothing new really). A chance remark made at a casual dinner earlier this month set off an amazing experience

I have always been fascinated by the crowds that Hindu temples attract. Granted there are so many of us in this most populated nation on earth, but nowhere have I seen such frenzy and fervour as I’ve seen in our temples and religious events. So this year when the Maha Kumbha was announced, I’ve been curious about going there.

So my friend S who is very adventurous and been on many pilgrimages said she was willing to take the plunge as long as I did.

S set about in her meticulous way of contacting her travel agents and fellow satsanghis who were going to the Kumbh at various stages.

Everything was set and yesterday we had a meeting to finalise details about our journey, our stay and the places of interest we would like to visit.

Last Minute hiccups

All was fine till a friend called up to say that all roads to the Kumbh would be closed 24 hours before we would be scheduled to leave.

And in all likelihood the train we had booked for our onward journey would be summarily cancelled literally leaving us high and dry on the station platform( if we managed to get there in the first place).

Thus began the scramble to co-ordinate with an ordinary citizen on the ground who was definitely more accessible than the official Kumbh site which is manned by a truly idiotic Chat bot and whose telephone numbers do not exist.

While we are waiting for further information I get a message from a friend informing me that all roads will be closed for three days prior to
- 27 th Jan because Amit Shah would be visiting
- 5th Feb because our PM Mr. Modi is visiting
- 10th Feb because our President Smt. Murmu is visiting
- In addition 26-27 February is Maha Shivratri so it will be over crowded.
So what does that leave the ordinary practising Hindu with?

Quite frankly, I am disgusted with how VIPs get away with disrupting ordinary citizens’ lives. And to think we have voted them to power to represent us!

I am now in a quandry whether I should go or not though S has assured me that I should leave all the worrying to God. If He wants us to visit, He will make sure that we get there and back safe and sound.

What would you do in my place?

Ciao
Winter’s Harvest

January 9, 2025
Our Mumbai winter which is getting rarer and rarer is really the best time to be in the city . Despite the horrid traffic that increases tenfold and the subsequent pollution I like our Mumbai winters because of the fresh fruit and vegetables in the market .

Kohlrabi or knolkohl is one of the rare gems that Winter gifts us Mumbaikars. Not many people know that this turnip like vegetable is packed with a punch . I like to cook it with another winter treasure – fresh green channa or green chickpeas. This plant is particularly grown in winter to replenish the soil with Nitrogen.

Unfortunately, these little peas are tedious to shell so today I made my favourite winter special with green peas . These too are in abundance and are specially sweet and juicy.

Green peas and kobl rabi

To make this I used

1 small kohl rabi

1 cup shelled green peas

1 tspn ghee

4 curry leaves

1/4 tspn turmeric powder

2 tbspn fresh grated coconut

1 tbspn finely chopped coriander

What to do:

Peel the kohl rabi and cut into small oblong

pieces. Keep in water to avoid discolouration.
- Heat the ghee in a flat bottomed pan.
- Add the jeera and allow to sputter.
- Lower the heat and add curry leaves, turmeric and hing.
- Add in the peas and kohl rabi and stir before adding milk.
- Cover with a lid. Lower the heat and let cook till the vegetables are soft.
- Add coconut and coriander and serve with hot Chapati.