• Scents, Smells & Odours

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    Bedtime was special while growing up. My brother and I looked forward to the tales my folks told us before “lights out”. Growing up at a time when there were distinctly girl stories and boy stories, my mother made sure my brother and I got our fair share of gender-specific stories. My brother’s favourite was “Jack and the Bean Stalk” and he used to wait for the giant to roar “Fee ! Fie! Fo ! Fum ! I smell the breath of an Englishman.” His anticipation was palpable as Jack clambered down as fast as he could and chopped down the beanstalk in the nick of time!

    Guessing games

    Indeed, smells are dead giveaways and like the Giant,  I could tell a mile away what was cooking in whose house. Walking home from the bus stop, I could smell the rich aroma of mutton curry or chole from the Khanna’s home, or the warm smell of Vanilla from Aunty Patsy’s house.

    I could also figure out who was the last person to have used the lift and my favourite game was to identify the perfume. Was it Dina with her signature perfume of ‘Miss Dior’ or was it Nalin with ‘Eau Sauvage’? In fact, so sensitive was my nose that even clean water had a strange, clean smell – almost metallic!

    Some smells would drive me crazy – like the smell of fish that came in with low tide, the smell of diesel fumes from the neighbouring bus depot or the smell of stale urine in a public toilet. 

    But strangely enough, after my babies were born, my sense of smell diminished and now only really strong smells affect my olfactory receptors. Perhaps this was nature’s way of protecting me from the natural odours of pee and poo that I had to deal with while washing baby bottoms and I used this opportunity to upgrade my personal perfume preferences from the mildly fragrant lavender, lily and rose to the stronger and more robust musk and oriental jasmines. 

    heady smells

    Luckily (or unluckily as the case may be), this deadening of odour receptor nerve cells hasn’t completely killed all sense of smell and some smells leave me on a positive high –

    the aroma of rice cooking  – Basmati or Ambemohar that wafts through the house just before meal times,

    the sharp smell of  toast burning or chapati as it  browns on the gas,

    the clean smell of Lyzol  as the floors are swabbed

    the gentle smell of baby while my grandson is bathing,

    the citrusy smell of aftershave that my husband loves to splash on, after he leaves the bathroom scented with Mysore Sandalwood soap,

    the scent of lit incense sticks mingling with the oil wick lamp comes from the pooja room,

    the smell of freshly ironed clothes that are piled up on my bed.

    And who can resist the smell of fresh flowers, the heady aroma of tuberoses, the faint fragrance of oriental lilies, the soft warmth of roses and the coolness of the Queen of the Night?

    What smells do you like?

    Ciao,

  • Lord Ram and Hanuman

    Lord Ram and Hanuman

    We were on the last leg of our trip. Ayodhya.

    For many years this little town on the banks of the river Sarayu was called Faizabad. Indeed, old timers still call it by that name. This sleepy town is known for being the birthplace of Lord Ram, and the famous temple of Hanuman Garhi. As a matter of fact, the local populace gives more importance to Hanuman and it is said that visiting the Hanuman Mandir is mandatory before visiting the Ram Janmabhoomi Temple.

    Foggy welcome

    We arrived at Ayodhya at 6 am after a 19 hour journey from Prayagraj. Despite an early start, the road was packed with traffic going both ways, three cars deep!

    Our driver who had been on duty for four days was quite exhausted and being stuck in a jam put him in a foul mood. As the night progressed, he kept nodding off when forced to stop and then rushing forward whenever he got a chance.

    Luckily we had our stack of theplas and khakhras to see us through. We managed one toilet stop and a tea stop but closer to midnight, I actually relieved myself behind a petrol station as the queue for the single loo was 10 women long !

    The traffic mysteriously eased from time to time but there was a time when our average speed was 1 km/ hr !

    Closer to Ayodhya, the GPS directed us to the back roads as the main roads to the town were closed. Once again it was cross country driving through rough tracks engulfed in fog. Slowly as day broke, we could make out fields and small lanes leading us towards the town. Finally, we came to the inevitable roadblock.

    Knights to the rescue

    While we were discussing our further travel plans at the Kumbh, one of the devotees gave us the number of a tourist guide of repute: Ravi Kumar.

    So when we came across hiccup No.4 we rang up both Monu, the owner of Hotel Madhur Kunj Palace and Ravi to ask what to do next .

    Monu was cross at being woken up but immediately arranged to send us two men to take us to the hotel . Once again it was through back alleys. The hotel was far from a palace and looked quite different from the pictures on Make My Trip. But in the end all we wanted was a comfortable bed for the night. Besides it was conveniently located – a hop, skip and a jump away from the main road .

    Temple Visits

    After a little rest, we decided to meet Ravi on the main road.

    Ravi took us to the Bharat Ramji restaurant for a quick breakfast of chole bhature, dosa and kachori chaat. Over breakfast we discussed our plan.

    Since all VIP Darshans were closed Ravi assured us that he would somehow get us into the temple. And he did !

    But after walking for almost the whole day we finally managed to get to the top of the general queue. And what energy there was! The crowd was charged with euphoria and chants of Jai Shree Ram resonated all around. Though it was crowded the lines moved forward once again after just a brief glimpse of the black idol of Lord Ram,

    The RamJanmabhoomi Mandir is still incomplete but it is still beautifully made . Marble exquisitely carved with stories of the Ramayan, it is a true amalgamation of the present and the past .,

    On the way to the Rammandir we passed the Court of Dashrath. We also visited a Gurudwara which was established by the son of the 10th Guru Gobind Singh.

    By evening we were quite tired and just rested for a bit along the barricades . A policeman with his band of merry men approached us and asked if we needed any help .
    He then instructed his man to take down our number and check in on us.
    And the police called 5 times to make sure we were ok.

    Truly during our entire trip, someone upstairs was watching out for us .

    Ayodhya was a fascinating city with lots of tiny temples and shops selling bangles and trinkets and Pooja stuff.

    Our evening was spent on the banks of the River Sarayu watching the evening arti .

    We had planned on visiting Hanuman Garhi after dinner but after the miles we had to walk we were knackered.

    So was Hanuman annoyed with us that we didn’t visit his temple first ?

    The last hurdle

    Once again we were advised to leave early because of the traffic restrictions. Ola and Uber were NOT allowed anywhere near our hotel. Ravi and Monu spent over an hour trying to get a reliable ride to the airport.

    The next morning we set off again on foot towards the station. But traffic was prohibited there too so we crossed the tracks and met our car almost a kilometre away from the highway. We had walked around 6000 steps already!

    From there on it was a breeze. Our flight home on Akasa was comfortable and we returned home happy that our journey to the Kumbh was successful.

    Why now?

    People asked us what made us go to the Kumbh at this crunch time when our visit coincided with Republic Day, the visit of Amit Shah and the Shahi Snan.

    Quite frankly, this was meant to be. Compared to the hardships and challenges pilgrims normally face, ours was a breeze.

    But I will go back one day in calmer times and visit all the temples I couldn’t get to see.

    Ciao

  • At the Kumbh

    At the Kumbh

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    We had to abandon our plans of going by train to Prayagraj because we were unsure whether the train would run or be cancelled. And even if it did go o Prayagraj, would we get to the Tent city from the station? Reports from Prayagraj told us about packed streets with people even sleeping on the roads and traffic restrictions prohibiting any kind of vehicular transport to the KUmbh area. This was an attempt to stop the crowds gearing up for the Grand Bath or Shahi Snan on 29th January.

    So we left Varanasi as early as possible, though the taxi driver had insisted on going even before dawn. All was well till we came to a railway overbridge at Andawa, from where all traffic was turned back. The taxi driver then put us into an Erickshaw that took us to our camp in Jhusi. It was quite a bumpy road through farms and dirt tracks, trying to get as close to the Akhada where we were staying. Finally, coming to a roadblock around twenty minutes away from our camp, we had no option but to walk. At that moment, I felt like a refugee, walking on a dusty road with my bag rolling behind me, unsure of what exactly lay ahead of us.

    S had a cousin who was part of the Tapisviji Purandas Babaji Ashram at Worli. She also knew a Trustee of the organisation, and they invited us to stay with them at their campsite.

    The campsite was very basic, with eight of us sleeping in a room. But the beds were comfortable, the food delicious and the people so warm and welcoming that within minutes, we felt as though we had known them all our lives. we were given badges to allow us entry to the Ashram and shown to our room. It was really hot, but we were assured that at night, we’d need thermals to help us sleep. And this was despite the thick comforter we were provided with.

    After a hearty breakfast we wandered off to see what we could of the different camps. Unfortunately, no eRickshaws were allowed so we abandoned our plans of visiting the ashrams of The rt of Living and the ISKON.

    We met an elephant along the way and fed him bananas receiving his blessing in return.

    Back at the ashram, we gobbled down a wholesome meal and prepared to walk to the river for a dip with Babaji. The idol was led in a procession, changing hands with his followers who wanted to carry him. Chanting the mantra of “Sat Kartar Bedo Par”, we had quite a walk before we came to a secluded part of the river bank. One by one, we had our dip, unmindful of the cold water, just concentrating on bobbing down.

    People say that your sins are washed when you take a dip in the holy Ganges, particularly at the confluence of the three rivers or Triveni Sangam. Unfortunately, boats to the Sangam were stopped, so we bathed on banks in the waters of the Sangam instead.

    I felt exhilarated, energised and content as I dipped three times into the river. Call it my imagination or fancy, but I felt connected to my ancestors, particularly my parents, whom I lost last year. Somehow I felt they were happy that I had gone to the Kumbh. And I felt a lightness in my being

    We spent the rest of the day hanging out with the other devotees and other travellers, sharing experiences of their journey to the Kumbh. We attended the evening aarti and enjoyed the peace of the ashram.

    Early the next morning, S helped distribute food for the sadhus who came up to the compound. All three of us helped in the kitchen duty sorting out the vegetables, grating bottle gourds and making balls for chapatis. There were over 100 people fed morning and afternoon.

    That afternoon, the food was served outside the compound as there was a security alert. Once again, we were advised to leave earlier than our scheduled 4 o’clock departure, so we quickly packed our bags and walked back to the barricade where we had got off. There, we got into our waiting tax and began our onward journey to Ayodhya.

    Ciao

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