On our way back from Aihole we couldn’t help discussing Raju’s interpretation of why the horse-faced woman was so made. Frankly the thought of drinking a horse’s semen as a cure for alcohlism is revolting enough to put anyone off alcohol for life.
At Aihole my sister in law introduced us to a local sweet called Karadant. This north Karnataka specialty is perfect for winter.
Vijaya is famous for Karadant
Made out of dry fruit, gum and jaggery we enjoyed munching it on the way to our next stop – lunch at a typical Lingayat Khanavali at Kudal Sangama- the confluence of the two rivers Krishna and Ghataprabha.
Lingayat’s are a sect within Hinduism and Kudal Sangam is very special for them. With pilgrims coming from all over the world at the oddest of times, this home-style, unpretentious eatery is open all round the clock. It serves food that is truly farm to table .The fenugreek leaves that were served as an accompanient to the greens, were so fresh and tender without a trace of bitterness. The buttermilk and paper thin jowar rotis were simply unbelievable.
After such a sumptuous meal we made our way back to Bijapur for the last night.
Ilkal saris and sweetmeats.
Even though I don’t wear saris everyday, I love looking at them. Our Indian textiles are so vibrant and varied with each part of the country offering different wares.
We took the local rickshaws to the market whichwqa chockablock with people.
Flowers, spices, jewellery and saris. You could buy all these and more in this busy bazar.
As the shopkeepers rolled out one sari after the other, it was hard to choose which one to buy .
Ilkal
Handwoven in a small town by the same name, these saris are mesmerising. The sheer simplicity and timelessness of this design brings out an earthiness that we all possess.
Having sampled the Karadant at Aihole, we had to take some back home . So after a visit to the spice shop where we could order freshly ground customised spice mixes, we ordered the sweets to be delivered to the hotel.
And that night we slept well, satisfied that we had seen everything we wanted to see save one monument that we had left for the last.
Aihole, Raju told us, was a temple town that got its name when Parshuram saw the river and exclaimed “Ai Hole” ( Oh River) as he washed his bloody sword in its waters, turning it red.
By the time we reached Aihole, our heads were swimming with tales from Hindu scriptures, the Panchantra and the history of the Chalukya dynasty.. Galagnath Temple easily became Galangal, and the temples of Jambulinga and Sangameshwar became almost indistinguishable.
The Durg Temple at Aihole
The sleepy little town of Aihole looked more like an overgrown village with tourism as the major activity. As we approached the site, we could see houses built around the temple ruins. Apparently, this was the condition of the temples at Pattasakal, too at one time, pointed out Raju. Soon, he said, these villagers of Aihole would be rehabilitated and the temples restored to their original state, just as they were in Pattadakal, to create another UNESCO-worthy site.
As seen by the board, there are at least 100 temples in this area. Since the original idols were long missing, the temples, it was hard to identify and name them. So, the excavators/archeologists named them after the inhabitants of each temple. Hence, a temple structure inhabited by a mad woman was called Madwoman temple! And another temple was called Lad Khan temple after a Muslim Army commander who was living there.
Just beyond the wall you can see a village, the likes of which were once around this temple complexThe group of temples that we gave a miss. The temple with stones that look like logs was the Lad Khan Temple.
Unfortunately, none of us could spare more than 4 days on a trip so this being to our last day, it was a bit of a rushed visit to Aihole. Besides, the sun was pretty high. And some of us were beginning to get roasted. Moreover, we had to get back to Bijapur for the night.
The Durga temple which incidentally, is the most most visited, is unique for several reasons. First off, it is not named after the Goddess Durga but is so called because it is a Fort ( Durga) temple!
Secondly, it is made in a Buddhist style in a horseshoe shape.
The structure of the Durga Temple
The first or lowest row was for the common man, the second for courtiers and officials while the third or topmost one was for royalty. This had comfortable sofa like seating to relax on.
Lastly, it doesn’t have an idol.
A fair bit of the temple was covered by mud as can be seen from the photo below. The figures beneath the inscription were underground and some of the figures were damaged during the excavation.
The lower part of the plinth was excavated The outer corridor
As with all temples, it was essential to have a water body to bathe in before a temple visit so a step well was built alongside.
The step well that is currently filled with stagnant water
Several beautiful carvings embellish the walls of the temple.
The 8 aremed Shiva relaxing with his hand on NandiThe statue of Vishnu as HarihareshwarVishnu and Laxmi flying on their garuda
On the ceiling
The 7 headed snake with a human headVishnu in Matsya Avatar on the ceiling
Doorway
Exquisitely carved figures of the river Ganga the entrance. Similar figures representing Yamuna are on the other side of the doorway.A flying garuda on the doorwayA frieze with continuous swastikaVishnu as Varaha holding BhoodeviVishnu as Narsimha An outlet for water from the inner sanctorumParvati as mahishasurmardiniAn empty niche
Multipurpose
According to Raju, the temple served as more than a place of worship. It was a multi-purpose hall of sorts which served many purposes.
For instance at the entrance the four pillars are like an interior designer’s catalogue of sorts, with each pillar showing the kind of embellishment that can be provided by the craftsmen .
For instance, this pillar shows a very basic design with the circle devoid of any decoration. This pillar shows more decoratio This pillar shows more complex designs
Life lessons
The temple, Raju explained to us was a microcosm of social life. Through the stories of the Panchatantra, and the legends associated with gods and goddesses, this was also a place for learning life skills and life’s lessons. For instance, he said pointing out to a carving of an amorous couple, he said that newly wed couples were went to the temple to learn about ‘intimacy’!
An amorous couple
But when it came to explaining the horse faced woman below, he got all hot and flustered. According to him the horse symbolised power like the Ashwamedha Yagna conducted by kings of yore, hence the lady with the horse-face in the photo below.
This according to Raju was a horse-faced woman who was teaching a prostitute her trade
Then he mumbled something about the horse’s semen, which was collected and given to alcoholics to cure them of their addiction.
Noting our puzzlement, he got even more enthused and muttered something else about Ashwagandha which he said was a horse’s sweat which was given to people to boost their immunity and virility.
The gooseberry that fell down Sumo wrestlers of their time A couple with their baby
It was really hot by the time we finished seeing the Durg temple so we didn’t even venture across the lawns to see the group of temples that were so near and yet so far.
Perhaps, if we had started earlier or if the sky had been overcast as it had been the previous day, we would have seen them and even more temples that lay beyond.
For it seems that there were more gems to see by the riverside. The river that gave the town its name ‘Ai hole! ‘
Ciao
For a detailed account of the temples at Aihole, please visit the two sites mentioned below.
If Aihole was known as the cradle of Hindu temple architecture.Pattadkal was the High School where it was finally perfected. This town which is called the Cambodia of India has temples in both the North and South Indian styles.
Like many cities that fall to ruin, its treasures became part of the local population and over the years the villages have used the stones to build their own homes! Signs of temple walls being used as part of a kitchen are shown by the soot-darkened walls.
The kadasiddheswara temple walls were used as a kitchen wall! Pile of stones that were often used by the villagers
So while it was never ‘lost’, it was only uncovered over the years and today it is recognised as a UNESCO heritage sight.
Crowning Glory
While most rivers of the Deccan flow eastwards, the Malaprabha river at this point suddenly flows northwards. That is why the Chalukyas chose this unique spot to crown their kings. They also used it to hold important events.
A glimpse of the river Malaprabha. This is the place from where the kings accesssed the Virupaksha temple.
Pattadkal was the place where 11 Chalukya kings were crowned. Subsequently 39 other dynasties also held their Coronations here hence the name Pattadakal.
Each king was crowned in his own small temple. Here you can see several plinths of the smaller temples.
The temples are made of local sandstone blocks that are interlocked and held in place by iron ‘staples’ as it were.
The first four temples in the complex are built in the North Indian style while the rest are in the South Indian style. These temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva and in the early temples, you won’t find Nandi standing in front .
The Galagnatha Temple with its outer circumambulatory corridor.The Galaganatha TempleThe circumambulatory path of the GalagnathShiva with head of Andhaka the demon who lusted after Parvati ( GalagnathaTemple ) The dancing Shiva with Parvati and Nandi on the arch of the Jambulinga temple
Our guide Raju gave us some explanation about the Linga but all that I remember is that the lower portion that is slightly recessed represents wealth that has to be guarded.
the canopies on the Sangameshwar temple look as though they are held up by birds
Virupaksha Temple
entrance to Virupaksha templeVishnu as Harihara
This is an active temple and is a victory temple, one of two identical temples built by the twin sisters Lokamahadevi and Trilokamahadevi who were married to Vikramaditya ll. They were built to commemorate his victory over thePallavas.
The twin sisters who married King Vikramaditya llGateway from the riversideA fallen nandiThe massive Nandi in the Nandi Mandap
The twin sisters Lokamahadevi and Trilokamahadevi were married to King Vikramaditya ll. To commemorate his victory over the Pallava king, the two sisters built two identical temples in this complex: Mallikarjun ( by Queen Trilokamahadevi) and Virupaksha (by Queen Lokamahadevi).
Today, the Virupaksha Temple remains the only active temple in the complex. Above you can see the temple in its entirety with all the details of temple architecture.
BhadraVeerbhadra with the third eye
The two dwarpal or doorkeepers to Shivas’s temple
Surya on top of the ceiling at the entrance to VirupakshaShankhanidhi the dwarpal of Kuber
On the outer walls of the Virupaksha temple you can see beautiful sculptures at the entrance itself.
Emblem of Karnataka StateYoga poses on temple wall. Virupaksha temple PattadakalEmblem of Indian Medical AssociationShiva as lingodbhava. Gajalakahmi on top. Virupaksha temple Pattadakal.Detail of GajalakshmiYoga poses on topAn unusual pose of a seated Harihara outside the Virupaksha templeShiva with a Sendhal Shiva & Parvati at Virupaksha
Inside the Temple
Inside the temple it is dark and quiet. The two sub sanctums on either side of the sanctum sanctorum are the idols of Ganesha ( long removed) and Parvati as Mahishasurmadini. This is inaccessible to visitors.
The statue of Parvati as Mahishasurmadini in Sub sanctum of Virupaksha temple
stories the pillars tell
The exquisitely carved pillars inside the temple have stories of the Mahabharat, Ramayan and Panchtantra.
Krishna directs the battle
Lifestyle & Beauty
Relaxing in a Chalukya spa
hairstyles
Hair style with decorative pins
Mallikarjun Temple
Though this was built identical to the Virupaksha temple , it has fallen to disrepair.
The green granite Nandi in front of Mallikarjun temple broken into two
Some stories on the pillars at Mallikarjun
Krishna killing Kansabhishma on a bed of arrows samudramanthanthe KeertimukhThe motif in the middle shows the Pancahtantra illustrates the story of the monkey and the logThe story of the birth of KrishnaStories of Shrikrishna The Panchatantra story of the woman who asked the crocodile to babysit her child
There are several temples in this complex and quite frankly, I am a bit confused as to which temple is which. So for a better understanding, please visit this site
A partially hidden victory pillar that still needs to be excavated reveals the triumphant king marching on his elephant, surrounded by attendants. The second photo reveals a king lying in a relaxed pose while the last shows a flower representing peace and victory
Photo 1Photo 2Photo 3
The first Photo shows a victorious king mounted on an elephant and surrounded by his attendants. The second shows him relaxing while the last symbolises victory and peace
The second victory pillar is near the Virupaksha Temple
Built to commemorate the victory of the Chalukyas over the Pallavas, this monolithic pillar has inscriptions in ancient Kannada and Devnagiri
Pattadakal really has the most beautiful temple architecture and every student of architecture should visit it.
From Pattadkal we drove down to Aihole, the last of our temple visits before we began our return journey to Bijapur and then to Pune .
Twenty- five Seven 