• Bijapur & Vijayapura

    Bijapur & Vijayapura

    A first glimpse of Bijapur

    How Vijayapura became Bijapur and then again Vijayapura

    Vijayapura or the City of Victory was first established in the 10th Century CE by the Chalukyas. Its name was changed to BIJAPUR after the area was conquered by the Bahmani kings.

    The gradual decline of the Bahmani Kingdon due to its incompetent rulers and internal conflict led to the establishment of five independent Sultanates :

    Yusuf Adil Shah, who founded the Bijapur Sultanate, retained Bijapur as his capital until it was annexed by Aurangzeb. It still remained BIJAPUR till finally its name was changed to the original VIJAYAPURA in 2014.

    VIJAYAPURA

    After settling into the Fern Residency, our hotel for the night, we set off to explore the city.

    Tonga in Bijapur

    I had last visited the city over thirty years ago to see my newly born nephew and had faint memories of it being a dusty, small town somewhere in Karnataka.

    The Friday Mosque & first hiccup

    Our first stop was to pick up our guide, Jehangir, a tiny, scruffy looking young man. For a moment, we were taken aback by his appearance and for a moment, thought the driver was giving a ride to a friend. But by the end of the day, we were all impressed by his knowledge and totally floored by his photography.

    The Friday Mosque

    We were all ready to get off the bus when Jehangir looked at S in his shorts and announced that he wouldn’t be allowed in because of his ‘immodest ‘dress, since it was an active mosque. He suggested that S drape his legs with one of the curtains in the bus! Luckily, one of the girls’ shawls came to the rescue and S was spared the ignominy of wearing a curtain and got by with a shawl as a lungi.

    The Friday Mosque or Jumma Masjid is the largest mosque in Bijapur and was built by Ali Adil Shah 1 to commemorate his victory over the Vijayanagar Kingdomw. This victory mosque is grand and can easily accommodate around 2500 people .

    The Royal Entrance to the mosque

    We entered the mosque through the Royal entrance and were amazed by the sheer size of its courtyard, the dome and the arched colonnades that accommodated the faithful who came to pray.

    Jehangir pointed out the huge Eastern gate built by Emperor Aurangzeb or Alamgir who was tasked by his father Shah Jehan to conquer the Deccan to prove his worthiness to inherit the throne, after he acquired the Sultanate of Bijapur.

    The Eastern Gayteway to the mosque

    What really impressed was the mihrab ( a recessed wall) decorated with verses of the Koran in black and gold calligraphy.

    The exquisite decoration of the mihrab is often compared to the mihrab of the cathedral at Cordoba
    Traces of the fine tile inlay on the arches show the Coat of Arms of the Shahis.
    Detail of black and gold decoration of the mihrab, interspersed with lapis

    On the floor you can see traces of the ‘carpets’ marked out to fit the worshipers in perfect lines

    The ‘carpet ‘ marked out on the floor

    The long arched colonnades

    .

    view from inside the mosque
    A view of the dome with its incomplete crescent moon made from five metals from the inside

    Jehangir would have spent more time talking about the finer architectural aspects of the mosque – its intertwined arches that held up the dome, the fine-lay work in the main prayer but we had to move on to the next monument that awaited us – The Gagan Mahal.

    Ciao,

  • Discovering the Lesser Known History of the Deccan

    While growing up, Indian history for us meant learning about the ancient Indian civilisations of Mohenjo-Daro, the Guptas , the Mauryas the early Muslim invasions, the Mughals, the British and then the Indian Freedom Movement.

    We did have a page or two devoted to the rulers of the Deccan, such as the Chalukyas, the Cholas, the Rashtrakutas, the Pallavas, and the Marathas, but they were literally touched upon to tick the boxes. The temples of South India, along with a few other architectural marvels such as Khajuraho and the cave temples of Ajanta, were only mentioned as part of the glory of ancient India. Apart from the Mughal Era which we learned about in great detail, much of India’s history remained unfamiliar to most of us.

    So when my sister-in-law, who hails from Bijapur, was organising a trip to her hometown, I just had to jump on the Intercity to join up with her 4-day trip to Bijapur, Badami, Aihole and Pattadkal.

    The trip begins

    We began our road trip from Pune with a 3-hour train journey to Solapur. Though it was an early start to catch the 6 am Pune Hyderabad Intercity, we enjoyed the ride.. With nine of us chattering away, the three hours went by in a jiffy. The Rajlways surprised me with their ‘airline’ style welcome tea and breakfast. It was definitely an improvement on the limp paper plate with a bread-draped omelet that I had had the day before on the Intercity.

    View from the train

    Ciao

  • Christ Church, Flower gardens, & Some Traditional Culture , Munnar

    I was expecting a larger Colonial presence in Munnar since it was essentially created by the British. But since it was a small town to begin with, consisting mainly of a few planters and their Indian workers. Besides it wasn’t a garrison town nor was it a British administrative summer capital. So essentially, the buildings were bungalows belonging to the planters ( many of which are now converted into Hotels) ,The Top Station, The Tea Museum, which is housed in a former colonial era tea factory and of course the High Range Club where we stayed.

    Most colonial towns have two quintessential British footprints – a Church and a Botanical Garden.

    Christ Church, a stone structure, typically made of stone as were most British colonial buildings, is perched on a hill. It is just over a 100 years old.

    There were some repairs work going on while we were there so I couldn’t get proper photo of the church from the outside.

    Once inside, you could feel the peace and quiet. As always, there is an air of poignancy as one imagines the people who worshiped there , in an alien land, far away from home, trying to recreate a bit of the world they left behind.

    The Flying Spider Monkey Fern Tree

    Since our local driver was our guide, I’m not too sure whether what we saw was the Botanical Garden, the Rose Garden or just a plant Nursery. On the map there are two marked gardens: The Government Botanical Garden and the KFDC Flower Garden. In addition, we also visited the Carmelgiri Spice Garden.

    It seems that we saw the KFDC Garden which was also known as the rose garden. Sadly we didn’t see many roses and the whole garden had more of a plant nursery feel to it with potted plants placed terraced steps.

    We spotted some really exotic plants like the Flying Spider Monkey Fern Tree and creepy looking cacti called Monkey’s Tails at the KFDC Flower garden.

    We also spotted some Love Shoots going on and we had to be careful not to photo bomb these ardent young couples.

    Similarly, the Carmelgiri Garden which was supposed to house exotic cacti, also looked like a plant nursery. We just went through quickly, bought some genuine Kerala Cloves and Cinnamon and made our way to the last must-see for the day – the Kathakali Dance and Kalaripayattu.

    Kathakalli & Kalaripatatu

    Though we had decided to cut short our stay at Munnar, we thought we must see a dance performance and a demonstration of the Martial Art form that is supposed to be the precursor to Karate.

    The receptionist at the HIgh Range Cluyb directed us to Punarjani, a totally show and tell experience for the tourist. Expecting to see a full fledged dramatic Kathakali dance, we were a bit disappointed to find out that we had signed up for the Fusion performance which showcase all the South Indian dances. It was enjoyable with a mix of modern music, special effects on the stage and was well received by the audience.

    But we were not prepared for the packed performance for the later show of Kalaripayatu where the audiences kept coming in. We cut short our show because by this time it had already become dark and we had an early start the next day to drive down to Kochi for our return flight. Besides, the HRC stopped its dinner service by 9 pm and we didn’t want to sleep hungry that night.

    So we missed the dramatic fire scenes and we will have to visit Munnar at a better time when the road work is over, when there is no rain in sight and the accommodation lives up to its promise of a truly colonial experience.

    Ciao,

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