Even though my mum has always worn saris while I was growing up, I had never seen a Yeola silk sari till I was gifted one by my mother-in-law to be. I still remember the shock I got when she took me into her room. She opened a cupboard and pulled out a pile of saris. They were softand silky . And the colours ! They were simply amazing !Reds, purples, blues, pinks, yellows and green.
“Choose whichever one you like”, she told me and I picked up a baby pink silk.
Over time I collected several of these saris – in blue and green shot silk, in aubergine, brilliant yellow and even a flaming orange. Some Yeola silks have small checks while others have tiny booties. They still remain my favourite because I can wear them to weddings and casual dos as well.
The sari gets its name from the small town of Yeola which is in Nasik district. Of course Yeola also makes other saris like the Paithani . The sari is also known as Jijamata sari . It is extremely popular because of its light weight and simple elegance.
What makes the Yeola special?
The distinctive feature of the Yeola sari is the slippery silk fabric, the small narrow border which has the same floral motif and the three bands of gold that make up the pallu.
X is a toughie in whichever theme you choose. I am sure that everyone has had to scratch their heads real hard for this one.And many like me must have tweaked things a bit just so that they fit with the alphabet.
Well, I am using X to describe the Cross Stitch that is used in a few embroidery styles.
One of the traditional Indian embroidery styles that uses the Cross Stitch is KASUTI, or the single thread embroidery from Dharwar. Kasuti has immense cultural significance in th
is part of the country and saris with Kasuti embroidery are worn for special occasions like weddings. The beauty of this embroidery is that it looks the same from both sides of the fabric. The cross stitch is just ONE of the four stitches used in Kasuti embroidery- the main one being the Holbein Stitch or Double running stitch.
Another embroidery tradition that uses the Cross Stitch is the Banjara nomadic tribes of Madhya Pradesh who use cross stitch to highlight the motifs used to embellish their skirts, belts and hankies.
The Banjara from Andhra Pradesh love incorporating mirrors and shells in their embroidery. They also use the cross stitch to keep in place the applique bands.
Source : from the net
And finally the modified Maltese Cross stitch or Sindhi stitch the women of Kutch use in their gorgeous work.
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With many women giving up the traditional sari for more contemporary attire,the ancient craft of handloom sari weaving is an endangered skill. But thanks to the passion of a handful of of people, like Mira, the sari and its weavers are being given a new lease of life.
The Handloom Crusader
Image source : Vaya Weaving Heritage
Mira Sagar is a Handloom Crusader who has embraced the sari in its original form. Her saris come straight from a weaver’s handloom made with a skill that is passed on from generation to generation . Thanks to modern machines, this traditional industry which is labour intensive and time consuming was finding it hard to compete with its modern counterpart. Thus faced with a diminishing market , many weavers were ready to turn in their looms for more mundane but reliable sources of livelihood . They took to running kirana shops or paanstalls!
Mira first met the weavers of Maheshwar during her stint with an NGO . She was amazed that this town once famous for its saris had just about 70-80 weavers still practicing this craft.
Something had to be done !
Breaking away from the traditional mouldof dark earthy colours like maroon and green that typified the fine gossamer-like fabric, Mira introduced a hitherto unheard of colour palette – pale, delicate pastels that complimented the fine fabric. Equally, they were hesitant to use unconventional yarns like tusser, jute and even linen.
But as the brand began to be recognised and valued , otherweavers jumped on the band wagon .
One step ahead
Mira had to be a step ahead of the imitators . She expanded her product range to include dupattas, stoles and yardage. She developed a special block printing technique that couldn’t be replicated . But above all, she worked towards creating an awareness and passion for this product among and a younger audience. Targeting women in their late 20’s to 40’s ensured that the industry would last for another generation. Theseexquisitely woven fabrics strike a chord in fashionistas who are passionate about the sari and handloom fabrics.
Retail is essential for sustainability
However , mere innovation, design and quality control weren’t enough : retailwas equally important . Of what use is a product if there is no one to buy it ? And what was the point of merely reviving a skill ? It had to be a sustainable activity. Thus began Vaya Weaving Heritage a vibrant retail activity that Mira established with her business partner . Today the store has 7 outlets in the major Indian cities. Remaining true to the Maheshwari handloom, Vaya has expanded to stock other handlooms. It now sources fabrics from weavers in Hyderabad, Kanjeevaram and Bengal too.
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Using better quality yarn, innovative techniques and and a design aesthetic that appealed to the young and trendy, Vaya has changed the image of a Khadi crusader to one of a sophisticated urban lady.
Source : from Vaya’s FB page
Today almost 500 workers are weaving for Vaya alone . With the revival of the handloom industry many moreweavers have gone back to the loom and are busy weaving dreams for the discerning fashionista. Many sleepy towns are now back on the fashion map with crusaders like Mira helping them along.
I’m participating in We are the World Blogfest where bloggers share positive acts of humanity in life, in the news, or social media on the last FRIDAY of each month.
Twenty- five Seven 