Twenty- five Seven

Tanchoi and the Chinese Connection #AtoZChallenge 2017

April 24, 2017
Is 80:20 worth it?

Today I really want to abandon the challenge. It has been quite tough finding time to post, read, comment and share. What is most disappointing is the fact that this effort has proved to be another 80:20 exercise where 80% effort produces 20% results.

And worse still, this morning, the news of the loss of a dear friend put things in their right perspective. For the past three weeks, I’ve been so caught up in this virtual world that I have let many things in my real world slide by. Like calling up friends I haven’t been in touch with.

For the past few months visiting R and meeting her grandson has been upper most on my mind. And that’s where it remained till I finally called her. We made two plans that had to be abandoned because neither of us could find a mutually suitable time in our busy schedules. Finally during our last call we decided to meet soon.

Little did I realise that I would meet her a week later .

At her funeral.

Tanchoi and the Chinese Connection

But while doing the research for this post on Tanchoi, I found out that the Tanchoi like the Gara was actually a Parsi import to India in the 19th Century. The word Tanchoi, is derived from the words Tan ( three) and Choi ( the Chinese master). It seems that so enamoured were the Parsis of the brocade fabric imported by the Chinese traders that three brothers from Surat actually went to China to learn the art of weaving the tanchoi from master weaver Choi. And back they came with this fabulous satiny fabric that was called Tanchoi.

Now isn’t that a great story?

My own Tanchoi

The orange and peach Tanchoi given to me by my mother in law to replace my zari tanchoi is hardier and has lasted for 36 years

My first tanchoi was presented to me at my wedding by my mother in law. It was a creamy satin with flowers and creepers in dull brocade. To describe it as stunning is pure understatment. And I was devastated when it ripped. So she gave me her own tanchoi bought at the same time. But since this was without any zari, it has stood the test of time.

Today Tanchoi is woven in Benares which has adopted it as its own tradition. It is woven in a single or double warp with 2-5 colours on the weft which are often of a similar shade on silk. The fabric has a rich satin finish with nature inspired motifs of flowers and birds.

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My friend R was a Parsi. So I felt that even though I am in no mood to write, I thought I should tell you about yet another Parsi tradition that is part of the Indian Textile Tradition.

If you want to know more about this fascinating community of happy people, do have a look at this brief history.

There are several books too like :
1. The Everlasting Flame: Zoroastrianism in History and Imagination
edited by Sarah Stewart, Firoza Punthakey Mistree, Ursula Sims-Williams

2. Parsis: The Zoroastrians of India: A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY by Sooni Taraporevala

3. A Zoroastrian Tapestry:Art, Religion and Culture by Pheroza J. Godrej and Firoza Punthakey Mistree compares Zoroastrianism to Hinduism, Islam and Judaism.

Join me and hundreds of other bloggers participating in the #AtoZ Challenge 2017. Linking with #BlogBoost and #Blogchatter
15 Silky Facts I bet you didn’t know about! #AtoZChallenge 2017

April 22, 2017
This is the third year I’m participating in the #A to Z Challenge. My theme has been Traditions in Indian Textiles.

Today I’m going to share some interesting facts about Silk that I bet you didn’t know about.

Silk is a luxury fabric that has played an important part in our Indian textile tradition. After all, without silk there wouldn’t be any of the gorgeous saris that we like to drape ourselves in! Silk is elegant and flowy. It is strong and yet it is soft. It is versatile and can be printed, tied and dyed and embroidered with silver and gold. Silk keeps you warm in winter and cool in summer.

Silky facts

Did you know that :
1. India is the second largest producer of Silk in the world.
2. Silk production is an agro-based industry and silkworms feed on mulberry bushes.
3. India manufactures 18% of the world’s silk .
4. The silk industry in India employs 7.9 million people in 52,360 villages and is a major foreign exchange earner.
5. Karnataka manufactures 70% of India’s silk .
6. There are 4 varieties of Indian silk : Mulberry, Eri, Tussar and Muga.
7. 80% of the silk produced in India is mulberry silk.
8. Tussar silk , also known as Wild Silk is produced in Central India.
9. India is the only country that produces Tussar Silk .
10. Kosa Silk is a variety of Tussar silk.
11. Eri silk is from Assam and the adjacent North Eastern states.
12. Muga silk comes from Assam.
13. Silk, though fragile looking is as strong as a metal wire.
14. For 1 kg of silk you need about 10 kg of cocoons.
15. Ahimsa silk is a silk manufactured without killing the silk worm.
Now that’s something to think about the next time you see a silk scarf or tie! Isn’t it?

Thank God it’s Saturday and yet another week of the #A to Z Challenge is over! I can’t say it wasn’t fun but all in all I am a bit disappointed. After all the trouble I take in visiting blogs, sharing them and commenting, I find that my blog traffic has increased just marginally. Boo-hoo.

Acknowledgements :

https://www.ibef.org/exports/indian-silk-industry.aspx

http://www.gktoday.in/silk-industry-of-india/#Silk_Varieties_of_India

Join me and hundreds of other bloggers participating in the #AtoZ Challenge 2017. Also linking this to #UltimateBlogChallenge #blogboost, #Blogchatter.

Have a great Sunday.
Ritu Kumar and the Design Revolution #AtoZChallenge 2017

April 21, 2017

[Tweet “Modern Indian designers have redefined Indian textile tradition with a new approach to traditional skills creating fashion with universal appeal.”]

A bare bones wardrobe

Despite the fact that India has a rich textile heritage, the fashion or couture tradition is fairly new. It may well shock you to know this but the average wardrobe of a woman was supposed to consist of just 5 saris . One she would wear. The other she would wash and hang out to dry. The third would be for sleeping in. The fourth would be a spare one. And the fifth would be a sari she wore for good occasions. You will be happy to know that no woman really followed this rule, but that is all that a woman was expected to really possess in terms of clothes.

The fashion revolution

Luckily things have changed and it won’t be wrong to say that RITU KUMAR was the one who spearheaded the Indian Fashion Revolution.

Since 1969, when she established her first workshop in Calcutta, she has slowly emerged into a leading Indian brand. She has developed her own unique style wherein she incorporates Indian embroideries ( especially zardozi ) and block prints on exquisite colour palettes in silk, cotton and georgette. Even today the Indian contestants at the Miss Universe and Miss World Pageants are dressed in her ensembles.

Satya Paul with his bright prints in georgette, silk and chiffon has contemporised the Indian sari . He has a range of Men’s wear too and what I particularly love are his scarves. Recently he has started his own pret label which I am sure will be as successful as his saris.

Going Forward

The first designer to establish a multi-designer boutique has been Tarun Tahiliani with Ensemble. While he is also a fashion designer with his own label, this concept of showcasing several designers under one roof has established him as one of the big names in Indian Fashion.

The industry finally got its seal of approval when the Ministry of Textiles opened the National Institute of Fashion Technology . This is on the lines of the Fashion Institute of Technology, NY. Since then the Indian fashion industry has seen a proliferation of talent :

Models in Manish Malhotra’s creations

Models in Manish Arora’s designs

And I could go on and on and on. There are a host of designers like Sabyasachi, Masaba, Payal Singhal and a veritable list of designers from A to Z. And each and every one of them has a design sensibility that is unique yet drawing on the rich heritage of India’s Textile Traditions.

Now isn’t this a fantastic new tradition?

Acknowledgements :

Very obviously I’ve taken images from the designers’ own web pages and I do hope I haven’t violated any copyrights or infringed upon intellectual property rights. The intention was only to illustrate how modern designers have incorporated our traditional skills and created a new couture that combines the best of the East and the West.

Join me and hundreds of other bloggers participating in the #AtoZ Challenge 2017. Linking this up with #Ultimate Blog Challenge and @Blogchatter